Inspirations

Chroma Colored Stone Jewelry by Emily Kuvin Is Your Go-To Daily Accessory

New York City. Jan. 17, 2020. Emily Kuvin is already known for her whimsical Stella starburst shape, and now the Manhattan-based jewelry designer is unveiling another effortlessly chic and easy-to-wear aesthetic in the Chroma Collection.

Chroma styles feature a trio of rectangular cuts—a tile, a baguette, and a wider, deeper baguette shape that she calls a Bon Bon (“They remind me of Pez candies,” she explained in a phone interview this morning)—in a variety of colored stones. Think blue topaz and peridot as well as sapphires. While a press release states that the designs are inspired by travel, Kuvin dished on their exact origin in our call.

The design of her Jubilation earrings—a starburst-like spray of baguettes—stem from the design request of a friend. The pal had received a pair of baguette-cut diamond earrings after a family member passed, but she didn’t care for the style. So Kuvin took them apart and made her a ring and the Jubilation design of earrings. “I loved them so much that I decided to make colorful versions of them,” she explains. “Ironically, I am my most creative when I have constraints such as, ‘You have these baguettes to work with, make something.’”

Meanwhile, another friend is responsible for the creation of her Bon Bon jewels. A pal became an inadvertent gemstone buyer and collector when stationed in a job in Afghanistan, bringing home a number of stones for Kuvin. Among the rocks was a step-cut green tourmaline that became the first Bon Bon ring. “I loved the simplicity of it,” recollects Kuvin. Tile numbers, too, were born from these Afghan gems, which are now visible in Chroma in earrings and necklaces.

Jubilation styles are made as earrings, pendants, and cigar bands, while Bon Bon are available as rings, necklaces, and stud earrings. Though Chroma is all about color, diamond lovers can also find styles to love. “I’ve sold medium- and small-size Jubilation styles in diamonds,” adds Kuvin.

All pieces are made in 14k gold, and retail prices range from $550 to $3,000.

Bon Bon ring in 14k yellow gold with turquoise or citrine, $550 apiece; available online at Emily Kuvin

Bon Bon ring in 14k yellow gold with 1.1 ct. turquoise or citrine, $550 apiece; available online at Emily Kuvin

Bon Bon necklace in 14k yellow gold with blue topaz and peridot, $2,050; available online at Emily Kuvin

Bon Bon necklace in 14k yellow gold with 3.3 cts. t.w. blue topaz and peridot, $2,050; available online at Emily Kuvin

Jubilation studs in 14k yellow gold with baguette-cut pink, yellow, and orange sapphires, $4,000; available online at Emily Kuvin

Jubilation studs in 14k yellow gold with 5.63 cts. t.w. baguette-cut pink, yellow, and orange sapphires, $4,000; available online at Emily Kuvin


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Inspirations

Imperial’s Big Push for Peacock-Color Pearl Jewelry

New York City. Jan. 17, 2020. Seasoned pearl jewelry maker Imperial Pearl, based in East Providence, R.I., has long been a proponent of cultured freshwater and akoya pearls. However, a recent deep dive into the wide spectrum of colors that Tahitian pearls have to offer has reacquainted them with the exotic South Sea beauties.

Imperial’s Kathy Grenier, vice president of business development and the director of marketing for the Cultured Pearl Association of America (CPAA), says that its product development team recently explored using green, light blue, and the peacock-color Tahitians in different styles, determining that the peacock was everybody’s favorite.

“Just like peacock feathers, people see gray, green, and blue body color with overtones of pink, gold, and purple in the peacock-color Tahitian pearls,” she explains. “Everyone liked the light blue colors, but everyone loved the peacocks. Stores that haven’t been paying much attention to Tahitians said they had to have it.”

And while Imperial had been making a lot of jewelry in white gold, the brand decided that the peacock-color pearls were best complemented by yellow gold. Confirmation of this move? The earrings shown below won an industry award.

About 10 classic styles are available to date, with more to come in the next few months.

Editor’s Note: This author works part time for the CPAA.

Necklace in 14k yellow gold with a peacock-color Tahitian pearl and diamond accents, $875; available online at Montica Jewelry

Necklace in 14k yellow gold with a peacock-color Tahitian pearl and diamond accents, $875; available online at Montica Jewelry

Earrings in 14k yellow gold with peacock-color Tahitian pearls and diamond accents, $1,760; available online at Montica Jewelry

Earrings in 14k yellow gold with peacock-color Tahitian pearls and diamond accents, $1,760; available online at Montica Jewelry

Ring in 14k yellow gold, a peacock-color Tahitian pearl, and diamond accents, $1,875; can be purchased through Montica Jewelry at (305) 446-2957

Ring in 14k yellow gold, a peacock-color Tahitian pearl, and diamond accents, $1,875; can be purchased through Montica Jewelry at (305) 446-2957


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Inspirations

Ana Katarina’s Fair Trade Sea of Cortez Pearl Jewelry Collection

New York City. Jan. 14, 2020. Sustainable-jewelry designer Ana Katarina first saw Sea of Cortez pearls, the product of a rainbow-lipped mollusk dubbed Pteria sterna that is found along the Pacific coastline, in 2016 at Columbia Gem House, a purveyor of 100 percent Fair Trade gems and jewelry. On a visit to Tucson, Ariz., for the trade-only AGTA GemFair, GJX show, and others, Katarina was on the hunt for ethically sourced materials she’d never before worked with and fell for the exotic color and luster of the silver-tone pearls with rainbow-color iridescence.

“Farms can say they are sustainable, but as an ex-journalist I like to do a lot of digging to determine for myself that something is sustainable,” she explains in a phone interview.

Sea of Cortez pearls grow at the Sea of Cortez farm in Guaymas, Sonora, México, which began as a university research program in 1993, according to online educational platform Pearls As One. Katarina learned that conservation efforts were hugely important to the farm since beautiful pearls only grow in pristine aquatic environments.

Columbia Gem House defines Fair Trade Gems as those that were “tracked from mine to market” and “handled according to strict protocols” including “environmental protection, fair labor practices, and a tight chain of custody that eliminates the possibility of treated gems or synthetics being introduced into the supply chain.” Satisfied that the farm was producing Fair Trade gems, Katarina designed the Sea of Love pearl jewelry collection.

While the name is a nod to the mid-80s hit by the Honeydrippers, the jewels have a sensual flow about them. Designs exhibit a balance of “positive and negative space,” and certain ones have an Art Deco-esque flair. All celebrate the “vibrancy of the sustainable ecosystem” in which Sea of Cortez pearls originate, explains Katarina. “I’m fascinated by the unique shapes of each pearl and the tonal qualities of the purple, green, and gray hues. Each piece is so unique because of the luster.”

Pieces are made in 18k yellow and white gold, some with diamonds and tsavorite garnets. Retail prices start at $3,600.

Sea of Love ring in 18k recycled yellow gold with Fair Trade Sea of Cortez pearls, $3,605; available online at Ana Katarina

Sea of Love ring in 18k recycled yellow gold with Fair Trade Sea of Cortez pearls, $3,605; available online at Ana Katarina

I Put a Spell on You earrings in in 18k recycled white gold with Fair Trade Sea of Cortez pearls and 1.15 cts. t.w. Fair Trade diamonds, $9,980; available online at Ana Katarina

I Put a Spell on You earrings in in 18k recycled white gold with Fair Trade Sea of Cortez pearls and 1.15 cts. t.w. Fair Trade diamonds, $9,980; available online at Ana Katarina

I Put a Spell on You necklace in in 18k recycled white gold with Fair Trade Sea of Cortez pearls and 1.42 cts. t.w. F-color, VS-clarity, Fair Trade diamonds, $10,840; available online at Ana Katarina

I Put a Spell on You necklace in in 18k recycled white gold with Fair Trade Sea of Cortez pearls and 1.42 cts. t.w. F-color, VS-clarity, Fair Trade diamonds, $10,840; available online at Ana Katarina


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Inspirations

Pearl Jewelry À La Mod

New York City.  Jan. 13, 2020. Fashion runways are still popping with graphic presentations of grandma’s old flame—the pearl. Its modern jewelry makeover continues in 2020.

Kanzashi Stick earrings in 14k gold with freshwater pearls and 0.12 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,490; Mizuki, 212-941-0332, mizukijewels.com

Medium Kanzashi Stick earrings in 14k gold with freshwater pearls and 0.12 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,490; available online at Mizuki

Kirsten cuff in oxidized silver and 24k gold with three white 13 mm freshwater pearls and 0.09 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,890; Lika Behar, 201-933-7200, likabehar.com

Kirsten cuff in oxidized silver and 24k gold with three white 13 mm freshwater pearls and 0.09 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,080; Lika Behar at Walters & Hogsett online

Couture Beveled Half Moon earrings in 18k white gold with 10 mm Tahitian pearls and 0.72 ct. t.w. diamonds, $9,300; email yael@yaelsonia.com.br for purchase

Couture Beveled Half Moon earrings in 18k white gold with 10 mm Tahitian pearls and 0.72 ct. t.w. diamonds, $9,300; by Yael Sonia, email yael@yaelsonia.com.br for purchase

Ring in 18k yellow gold with a 12.32 mm golden South Sea pearl and 13.38 ct. rutilated quartz, $9,800; by Assael, email emoffitt@assael.com for purchase

Ring in 18k yellow gold with a 12.32 mm golden South Sea pearl and 13.38 ct. rutilated quartz, $9,800; by Assael, email emoffitt@assael.com for purchase

Nacre necklace with mother-of-pearl and sanded and graduated-in-size white South Sea pearls with an 18k white gold clasp, £21,500; by Melanie Georgacopoulos, email info@melaniegeorgacopoulos.com for purchase

Nacre necklace with mother-of-pearl and sanded and graduated-in-size white South Sea pearls with an 18k white gold clasp, £21,500; by Melanie Georgacopoulos, email info@melaniegeorgacopoulos.com for purchase


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