Inspirations

Neon Season: Melissa Kaye’s New Neon Enamel Jewelry Collection

Las Vegas, May 30, 2019. While black is the unofficial color of New York City, one of its inhabitants likes to interject a bit of 1980s neon hues into her wardrobe whenever possible. This rogue resident is jewelry designer Melissa Kaye, who is unveiling her new neon enamel jewelry collection at the trade-only Couture show, which opens today in Sin City.

“I am your typical New Yorker, often wearing all-black clothes, but when I go to the gym, my sneakers are neon pink,” she says. “I love my neutral colors, but when I do wear color I go for it!”

Kaye has also been fostering a burgeoning interest in enamel, deciding that this year was the time for her neon lights to shine.

And considering Kaye’s portfolio of largely diamond-intense pieces, the enamel—including neon pink, orange, and yellow—will be hard to miss. Still, shrinking violets needn’t stress; black and white enamel will also have a presence for those unready to throw color caution to the wind.

Keiko Mita jewelry

Plus, this maker of timeless and somewhat futuristic modern geometry-inspired looks has firsthand shopping savvy. “When I go into a store and face a wall of color options, I buy black, white, and my favorite color,” she reveals.

Kaye applies the enamel to some of her tried-and-true styles. Think of the best-selling Cristina earring, a minimalist hinged hoop number resembling slender face-to-face wisps of hair, available in four sizes.

“It’s a piece that works well with everybody,” says Kaye. “I’ve never not put that earring on someone who didn’t think it looked great. Clients buy multiple pairs for multiple piercings, and enamel is a fun way to inject different options into that look.”

Needle pendants that are perfect for layering are another ideal style for enamel application, while ear cuffs are also available. In total, there are upwards of 15 individual styles, all made in 18k gold. Gemstone accents include diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and tsavorite garnet. “People will mix and match,” Kaye insists.

Save a street dog's life this summer.

A footnote about Kaye’s enamel: it’s all made in New York City under her strict control. Production is the unsexy side of jewelry ownership that quickly becomes important when care and maintenance issues arise. Enamel is hardened glass, after all, so with enough force or in the face of unexpected life mishaps, any enamel can crack and will require repair. When the maker and her manufacturing team are stateside, the process is infinitely easier—something to consider since so many artists now unveil enamel collections. 

Mini enamel Cristina earrings start at $850. Store buyers in Las Vegas this week can find Kaye at Couture Booth #1202 in the Lafite Ballroom.

Lola ring in 18k white gold with white enamel and 0.53 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,850, email melissa@melissakayejewelry.com at Melissa Kaye for purchase.

Lola ring in 18k white gold with white enamel and 0.53 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,850; email melissa@melissakayejewelry.com at Melissa Kaye for purchase.

Medium-size Cristina earring in 18k yellow gold with black enamel and 0.57 ct. t.w. diamonds, $3,960; email melissa@melissakayejewelry.com at Melissa Kaye for purchase

Medium-size Cristina earrings in 18k yellow gold with black enamel and 0.57 ct. t.w. diamonds, $3,960; email melissa@melissakayejewelry.com at Melissa Kaye for purchase

Lola link necklace in 18k yellow gold with hot pink enamel and 0.45 ct. t.w. diamonds, $6,450; email melissa@melissakayejewelry.com at Melissa Kaye for purchase

Lola link necklace in 18k yellow gold with hot pink enamel and 0.45 ct. t.w. diamonds, $6,450; email melissa@melissakayejewelry.com at Melissa Kaye for purchase


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Inspirations

Modern Mobiles: Margery Hirschey’s New Orpheus Earring Collection

New York City, May 29, 2019. In the quest to develop never-before-seen jewels, Margery Hirschey decided to go long—as in really long (upwards of six inches)—and three-dimensional in her new Orpheus earring collection.

Long drops are already a focal point of Hirschey’s work, which isn’t surprising given that the artist has the silhouette to wear them; her giraffe-like neckline puts every pair on a regal pedestal. But she also likes a production challenge.

“It’s easy to lay out flat pieces, but earrings are hanging sculptures with movement, so they should be 3D,” she says.

Keiko Mita jewelry

As she wrapped her mind around possibilities and researched looks, the ones she liked turned out to be Bauhausy. Hirschey suspected she knew the reason why: a Wassily Kandinsky retrospective she’d seen as a child was still burned in the back of her mind, even though it had been four decades since first saw it. So she let this memory guide her and the design of the new collection.

To wit, the name Orpheus refers to a Greek god but also to the school of modern art of which Kandinsky was a devotee. You can literally see the lines and movement of Composition VIII in the sway of Hirschey’s Orpheus styles—two single earrings, one pair, and some studs (at the request of her daughter). “My daughter said, ‘Mom, not everyone can wear these long earrings,’” laughs Hirschey.

And while Hirschey’s work is often in 22k gold, Orpheus is in 18k gold for weight.

“It’s lighter on the ear, and I like the color,” she says.

Save a street dog's life this summer.

Accent stones include rubies, diamonds, and labradorites. Why labs? They’re often available in rectangular shapes, which appeal to the maker’s modern sensibility.

Studs retail for $900 as singles or $1,800 for two, while the priciest pair costs $11,000.

Margery Hirschey Orpheus stud earrings

Orpheus stud earrings in 18k yellow gold with 0.06 ct. t.w. diamonds, $900 for one or $1,800 for a pair; email margery@margeryhirschey.com for purchase

Margery Hirschey Orpheus single drop earrings

Six-inch-long single earring in 18k yellow gold with 3.03 cts. t.w. labradorite and 0.60 ct. t.w. diamonds, $9,900 for one earring; email margery@margeryhirschey.com for purchase

Margery Hirschey Orpheus drop earrings

Earring pair in in 18k yellow gold are three inches in length with 4.58 cts. t.w. ruby and 0.30 ct. t.w. diamonds, $11,000; email margery@margeryhirschey.com for purchase


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Inspirations

12 Las Vegas Jewelry Trends, No. 12, Link Love: Chain Link Styles Are a Versatile Addition to Every Jewelry Collector’s Wardrobe

New York City, May 24, 2019. Chain link styles are the chameleon of your jewelry box; chain jewels can be classic, punk, preppy, girly, bohemian, unisex, masculine, and more. New chain numbers are multiplying at a record pace to appeal to collectors who realize the value of this priceless versatility. Channeling a glam biker babe? There are thick curb-link drop earrings topped off with diamonds to help get the look. Lunching with grandma? Try a more reserved two-tone gold and silver necklace. And if you’re inspired by runway looks from Alexander McQueen or Chanel, add a statement pendant or enhancer to your links or layer them up with abandon. There’s never been a better time to express yourself through these diverse metal connections that both tie us together and convey distinct design preferences.

Editor’s Note: We are counting down the days to the most important jewelry trade shows in North America (happening in late May and early June in Las Vegas) with 12 days of jewelry trends! These trends are based on what’s been appearing in the market lately, what was on display at other recent fairs, and what designers say they’re making for the next shows.

Chain ear cuff in 18k yellow gold, €330; Christina Soubli

Chain ear cuff in 18k yellow gold, €330; Christina Soubli

Twenty-four-inch Hudson necklace in sterling silver with three 18k yellow gold-bonded links, $650; Haverhill Leach

Twenty-four-inch Hudson necklace in sterling silver with three 18k yellow gold-bonded links, $650; Haverhill Leach

Free-form Chunky necklace in oxidized sterling silver and 18k yellow gold, $1,295; Rona Fisher

Free-form Chunky necklace in oxidized sterling silver and 18k yellow gold, $1,295; Rona Fisher

Gigi Ferranti jewelry is delicately bold!
Lola link bracelet in 18k gold with hot pink enamel and 0.45 ct. t.w. diamonds, $3,950; email

Lola link bracelet in 18k gold with hot pink enamel and 0.45 ct. t.w. diamonds is from the new Neon Enamel collection, $3,950; email melissa@melissakayejewelry.com at Melissa Kaye for purchase

Earrings in 18k yellow gold with 1.60 cts. t.w. diamonds, $13,600; Mindi Mond

Earrings in 18k yellow gold with 1.60 cts. t.w. diamonds, $13,600; Mindi Mond


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Inspirations

12 Las Vegas Jewelry Trends, No. 11, Hoop Dreams: Hoop Earrings Are Timeless and Integral to America’s Love of Casual Living

New York City, May 23, 2019. Hoop earrings are the timeless style ideally suited to the U.S.’s affinity for casual couture. From the hoop-loving crowds that emerge during March Madness to the track-suit-wearing tribes of soccer moms nationwide, hoops represent effortless flair and an easy-to-embrace symbol. Hoops also continue to be a fixture in runway shows like Ulla Johnson and Bottega Veneta, and celebs like J. Lo are renowned for their love of the look in a wide range of silhouettes—from chunky to slender to gem-studded. Looking for a go-to style that’s versatile and won’t disappoint? Put on a pair of hoops and effortlessly tackle whatever scenario life throws your way.

Editor’s Note: We are counting down the days to the most important jewelry trade shows in North America (happening in late May and early June in Las Vegas) with 12 days of jewelry trends! These trends are based on what’s been appearing in the market lately, what was on display at other recent fairs, and what designers say they’re making for the next shows.

Large Diana hoop earrings in 14k yellow gold with white cultured freshwater pearls, $1,220; email  Alexis@leximazzdesigns.com at LexiMazz Designs for purchase

Medium hoop earrings in 18k gold filigree with cultured white freshwater pearls, €1,200; Christina Soubli

Hoop earrings in blackened silver are 40 mm big and have 0.4 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,450; email belle@bellebrooke.net at Belle Brooke Designs for purchase

Gigi Ferranti jewelry is delicately bold!

Kimono hoop earrings in 18k yellow gold with hand-engraved and vitreous enamel beads by Kamal Meenakar as well as cultured Tahitian pearls and pink tourmaline, carnelian, rhodochrosite, citrine, garnet, hematite and synthetic ruby beads, £4,295; Alice Cicolini

Dynamite hoops in 18k white gold with gray enamel, 1.56 cts. t.w. baguette-cut gray spinel and 0.34 ct. t.w. princess-cut gray spinel, $5,806.42; email sw_us_ops@stephenwebster.com at Stephen Webster for purchase


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