Opinion

A Message from the Editor: We’re Here for You

New York City. March 16, 2020. Greetings, friends. JenniferHeebner.com (JH) and The Jewelry Book (TJB) publisher Nicole Bromstad want you to know that you are not alone. Reach us at Jennifer@jenniferheebner.com or Nicole@thejewelrybook.com if you need a friend.

Single earring in 14k yellow gold with a removable green rutilated quartz, allowing the earring to be worn as a stud with a two-inch dangling chain, $285; by Monaka Jewelry, available online at The Clay Pot

Single earring in 14k yellow gold with a removable green rutilated quartz, allowing the earring to be worn as a stud with a two-inch dangling chain, $285; by Monaka Jewelry, available online at The Clay Pot

JH plans to stay focused on the jewelry and jewelry stories that remind us why our industry is so meaningful. Our content isn’t reliant on trade fairs or public venues, so expect us to continue to reach readers via digital delivery and snail mail (for TJB, our trade content partner). In fact, now may be an even more important time to dive into new collections and the tales behind them in order to maintain a sense of normalcy with a side of glittering escape.

Cleo bracelet in sterling silver with green topaz, $300; by Ed Levin, available online at Von Bargen’s Jewelry

Cleo bracelet in sterling silver with green topaz, $300; by Ed Levin, available online at Von Bargen’s Jewelry

Christmas will still come; jewelry will always be relevant for its beauty, messaging, meaning, economic impact the world over, and ability to connect people—even when social distancing is in effect. Milestones like weddings, promotions, graduations, anniversaries, and more will still happen, and people will continue to look to retailers and designers to provide them with the joy-inducing wearable treasures they love. Jewelry will always play a role in our relationships and lives because it is a special staple to many.

Malachite Tile earrings in 14k yellow gold with malachite and colorless diamonds, $1,280; available online at Emily Kuvin Jewelry

Malachite Tile earrings in 14k yellow gold with malachite and colorless diamonds, $1,280; available online at Emily Kuvin Jewelry

Sea Breeze ring in 14k yellow gold and 14k palladium white gold with a 2.4 ct. emerald, a 0.035 ct. blue diamond, a 0.03 ct. green garnet, and 0.01 ct. diamond, $1,870; email design@k-mita.com at Keiko Mita Jewelry for purchase

Sea Breeze ring in 14k yellow gold and 14k palladium white gold with a 2.4 ct. emerald, a 0.035 ct. blue diamond, a 0.03 ct. green garnet, and 0.01 ct. diamond, $1,870; email design@k-mita.com at Keiko Mita Jewelry for purchase

Jewelry makes people happy, period. During this difficult time, TJB and JH will continue to deliver the jewelry content you crave in an effort to help us move past this temporary situation with grace and calm. Stay calm, stay safe, and stay home if you can. This will all pass and life will return to normal.

Starburst necklace in 18k yellow gold with 34 cts. t.w. blue-green azure-malachite beads and two large cabochon-cut amethysts, $8,500; available online at Daria de Koning Jewelry

Starburst necklace in 18k yellow gold with 34 cts. t.w. blue-green azure-malachite beads and two large cabochon-cut amethysts, $8,500; available online at Daria de Koning Jewelry

Drop earrings in 14k yellow gold with purple garnets and diamonds, $1,300 at K.Jon’s

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Opinion

Why Mizuki’s Kanzashi Stick Earrings Are the Next Big Jewelry Trend

New York City. Jan. 22, 2020. Mizuki Goltz’s Kanzashi Stick earrings were the highlight of a press preview I attended in the fall of 2019. As the name suggests, Kanzashi Stick earrings are a nod to the kanzashi stick hair ornaments worn by Japanese women for centuries.

For the hair, myriad styles exist. The most prominent are sturdy and tall, with long slender rods that burst forth from buns and updos and boast ornaments that dance like lures for admiring eyes.

In Goltz’s collection, smaller versions for the ears have the same recognizable drama but in miniature form. Pearls and gemstones anchor either end of long, slim gold posts, with fancy stone cuts and fantastical pearl shapes in a permanent seesaw position through the earring hole. The effect is arresting, almost tribal, and definitely a winning look. Why? It’s hard to keep reinventing the earring, but this caricaturized front-to-back style is compelling in appearance while simple enough to actually put on.

Twenty-four versions are evident online, with retail prices starting under $500.

 Single Kanzashi Pearl Drop earring in 18k yellow gold with freshwater pearls, $445; available online at Mizuki

Single Kanzashi Pearl Drop earring in 18k yellow gold with freshwater pearls, $445; available online at Mizuki

Mismatched Kanzashi Stick earring and stud in 18k white gold with white freshwater baroque pearls with 1 ct. t.w. baguette-cut diamonds, $13,900; available online at Mizuki

Mismatched Kanzashi Stick earring and stud in 18k white gold with white freshwater baroque pearls with 1 ct. t.w. baguette-cut diamonds, $13,900; available online at Mizuki

Kanzashi Stick earrings in 18k white gold with Tahitian pearls and 2.46 cts. t.w. baguette-cut diamonds, $28,000; available online at Mizuki

Kanzashi Stick earrings in 18k white gold with Tahitian pearls and 2.46 cts. t.w. baguette-cut diamonds, $28,000; available online at Mizuki


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Opinion

Part II of II: 21 Jewels I Fell For at the 2019 AGTA Spectrum Awards Media Preview

New York City. Aug. 22, 2019. Here are the rest of the jewels I loved from this year’s American Gem Trade Association’s (AGTA) Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards. I wish I could own them all! Since that’s not possible on a writer’s salary, these shall remain on my permanent wish list.

A Star Is Born ring in 18k white gold with a 10.5 ct. Sri Lankan blue sapphire and 2.73 cts. t.w. diamonds by Benny Hayoun of B & V Diamonds, Inc.
A Star Is Born ring in 18k white gold with a 10.5 ct. Sri Lankan blue sapphire and 2.73 cts. t.w. diamonds by Benny Hayoun of B & V Diamonds, Inc.

A Star Is Born ring in 18k white gold with a 10.5 ct. Sri Lankan blue sapphire and 2.73 cts. t.w. diamonds by Benny Hayoun of B & V Diamonds, Inc., entered into Evening Wear

I’m not a blue person, but it’s hard not to love this giant star-inspired ring! It’s a whimsical design with a soft blue shade that would make a perfect cocktail ring.

Ring in platinum with a 4.2 ct. black opal with emeralds and diamonds by Joel Price

Ring in platinum with a 4.2 ct. black opal with emeralds and diamonds by Joel Price, entered into Business/Day Wear

This opal—OMG!! It packs a visual punch that’s not often seen. I often fall in love with specific stones, and this is definitely one of my new faves.

Pendant necklace in 18k yellow gold with a 20.9 ct. black opal, 1.21 cts. t.w. diamonds, and 0.77 ct. t.w. sapphires by Michael Hezar of Michael John Jewelry

Pendant necklace in 18k yellow gold with a 20.9 ct. black opal, 1.21 cts. t.w. diamonds, and 0.77 ct. t.w. sapphires by Michael Hezar of Michael John Jewelry, entered into Evening Wear

I love the blue-purple colors in this funky pendant piece. It’s got a somewhat 1970s vibe that I would happily groove to often if part of my wardrobe.

Little Lilac ring in platinum with a 1.85 ct. star sapphire and 2.36 cts. t.w. diamonds by Michael Endlich of Pave Fine Jewelry

Little Lilac ring in platinum with a 1.85 ct. star sapphire and 2.36 cts. t.w. diamonds by Michael Endlich of Pave Fine Jewelry, entered into the Classical division and took the Entry Platinum Innovation award in that category This little cutie would make a sweet addition to anyone’s jewelry box! While the star effect is subtle, the almost purple color of the stone makes it intriguing. I’ll take it!

Necklace in 14k yellow gold with 6–13 mm cultured Tahitian pearls with 9 cts. t.w. of black diamonds set into the pearls as geodes by Hisano Shepherd of little h.

Necklace in 14k yellow gold with 6–13 mm cultured Tahitian pearls with 9 cts. t.w. of black diamonds set into the pearls as geodes by Hisano Shepherd of little h., entered into Business/Day Wear

This necklace is incredible! It was hard for me to capture on an iPhone, but Hisano’s professional shot does a fine job. She has a matching pair of earrings that took a Gem Diva award in this category, but I appreciate this necklace for the look and the time it took to create.

Earrings in 18k and 18.5k yellow gold with 12.5 grams of coral and 7.8 grams of turquoise by Sean Gilson for Assael

Earrings in 18k and 18.5k yellow gold with 12.5 grams of coral and 7.8 grams of turquoise by Sean Gilson for Assael, entered into Business/Day Wear and took the Editor’s Choice award Can you say G-R-A-P-H-I-C? These killer fun earrings from the pearl and coral house are beyond covetable! I could see a wide range of generations wanting to own these, all with the commonality of superb taste.

Drop earrings in 14k white and yellow gold with 17.62 cts. t.w. green tourmalines, 3.62 cts. t.w. rainbow moonstones, and blue druzy agate cutouts by Mark Loren

Drop earrings in 14k white and yellow gold with 17.62 cts. t.w. green tourmalines, 3.62 cts. t.w. rainbow moonstones, and blue druzy agate cutouts by Mark Loren, entered into Business/Day Wear

I clearly have a thing for Mark Loren designs and druzy! I just love the understated sparkle of druzy, and I appreciate the long gem silhouettes with which Mark often works.

Pendant in 18k yellow gold with a 5.24 ct. Paraiba tourmaline, 2.24 cts. t.w. diamonds, and 0.88 ct. t.w. Paraiba tourmalines by Erica Courtney

Pendant in 18k yellow gold with a 5.24 ct. Paraiba tourmaline, 2.24 cts. t.w. diamonds, and 0.88 ct. t.w. Paraiba tourmalines by Erica Courtney, entered into Bridal Wear

Erica nabbed two awards in other categories, but this piece was my fave of her entries. Paraiba is so hard to obtain now, so these little cabs are downright yummy and rare.

Earrings in 18k white gold with 70.61 cts. t.w. colorless topaz, 4.81 cts. Paraiba tourmaline, and 1.55 cts. t.w. diamonds by Nin Zaridze of NZR Jewelry

Earrings in 18k white gold with 70.61 cts. t.w. colorless topaz, 4.81 cts. Paraiba tourmaline, and 1.55 cts. t.w. diamonds by Nin Zaridze of NZR Jewelry, Inc., entered into Business/Day Wear

These massive earrings are delish! I love the pairing of topaz, a common stone, with Paraiba, a rare and super-precious one!

Pendant necklace in 18k white gold with a 49.80 ct. boulder opal, 3.77 cts. t.w. blue sapphires, 3.11 cts. t.w. tsavorite garnets, and 1.12 cts. t.w. diamonds by Tanja Schuetz of DuftyWeis Opals, Inc.

Pendant necklace in 18k white gold with a 49.80 ct. boulder opal, 3.77 cts. t.w. blue sapphires, 3.11 cts. t.w. tsavorite garnets, and 1.12 cts. t.w. diamonds by Tanja Schuetz of DuftyWeis Opals, Inc., entered into Evening Wear and took First Place in that division

Drop. Dead. Gorgeous!!! The opal is phenomenal, so the design needn’t be complicated. I love the feather motif; it gracefully celebrates the beauty of the center stone.


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Opinion

Part I of II: 21 Jewels I Fell For at the 2019 AGTA Spectrum Awards Media Preview

New York City. Aug. 21, 2019. So many of the jewels at this year’s American Gem Trade Association’s (AGTA) Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards were off-the-charts stunning! While the official winners were certainly worthy, I often find many of the non-winning pieces to be equally compelling. Here are 21 (clearly I had a hard time narrowing it down) jewels that may or may not be official winners, but they are style champions in my mind. Some of them are made by retailers’ own custom departments. Check back tomorrow for Part II.

Ring in 18k white gold with black rhodium and a 17.8 ct. tanzanite and 0.91 ct. t.w. diamonds by Marcia Budet
Ring in 18k white gold with black rhodium and a 17.8 ct. tanzanite and 0.91 ct. t.w. diamonds by Marcia Budet

Ring in 18k white gold with black rhodium and a 17.8 ct. tanzanite and 0.91 ct. t.w. diamonds by Marcia Budet, entered into Evening Wear

Purple is my favorite color, so it’s not surprising that I love this beauty! The cut is so bold and fun.

Necklace in 18k white gold with untreated jadeite cabochons and a removable yellow sapphire and 2.32 cts. t.w. rose-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds by T. Foster & Co.

Necklace in 18k white gold with untreated jadeite cabochons and a removable yellow sapphire and 2.32 cts. t.w. rose-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds by T. Foster & Co. , entered into Business/Day Wear

I love this little cutie for the color combo and how it celebrates jadeite, a stone not so commonly seen here in the States.

Brides Rock earrings in 18k yellow gold with 33.20 cts. t.w. aquamarines, 20.74 cts. t.w. morganites, 1.57 cts. t.w. tanzanites, and 0.08 ct. t.w. diamonds by Heath London Jewelry

Brides Rock earrings in 18k yellow gold with 33.20 cts. t.w. aquamarines, 20.74 cts. t.w. morganites, 1.57 cts. t.w. tanzanites, and 0.08 ct. t.w. diamonds by Heath London Jewelry, entered into Bridal Wear

I adore the random faceting on these!! The understated sparkle on such large gems creates a bold look that I would wear often.

Acrylic glasses with platinum and spinel, tourmalines, aquamarines, opal, garnets, sapphires, tanzanite, and diamonds by Deirdre Featherstone
Acrylic glasses with platinum and spinel, tourmalines, aquamarines, opal, garnets, sapphires, tanzanite, and diamonds by Deirdre Featherstone

Acrylic glasses with platinum and spinel, tourmalines, aquamarines, opal, garnets, sapphires, tanzanite, and diamonds by Deirdre Featherstone, entered into Business/Day Wear

The glasses—how could this four-eyed editor not love them? Since I wear glasses all the time, it’s not surprising how much I love this pair.

Necklace in 18k white gold with 123.64 cts. t.w. pear-shape pink opal cabochons with 21.62 cts. t.w. round and baguette-cut diamonds by Steven Weintraub

Necklace in 18k white gold with 123.64 cts. t.w. pear-shape pink opal cabochons with 21.62 cts. t.w. round and baguette-cut diamonds by Steven Weintraub of Gold & Diamond Source, entered in Evening Wear

This statement necklace is a stunner that I would dress down in a tennis skirt (my uniform when I’m working from home) or up in a gown. Plus, the pink opals remind me of conch pearls, which are also bubblegum pink but rarer.

Oversize drop earrings in 18k white gold with 38.25 cts. t.w. emerald cabochons and 6.11 cts. t.w. diamonds by Muzo Emeralds

Oversize drop earrings in 18k white gold with 38.25 cts. t.w. emerald cabochons and 6.11 cts. t.w. diamonds by Muzo Emeralds, entered in Evening Wear

I love all of the fun Muzo’s collaborations with designers that I see in the market, so I’m for sure in love with this bold pair of earrings from the mining house whose rocks originate in Colombia. Big earrings are still trending in the market, so this pair fits right in.

Brooch in platinum with a 56.18 ct. hexagonal-cut aquamarine cabochon with 27.87 cts. t.w. kunzite and 0.84 ct. t.w. diamonds by Myles Mindham

Brooch in platinum with a 56.18 ct. hexagonal-cut aquamarine cabochon with 27.87 cts. t.w. kunzite and 0.84 ct. t.w. diamonds by Myles Mindham, entered into Business/Day Wear

OMG—I could not adore this piece more! I love the color combo, the unusual cuts, and I love brooches for their versatility. I would wear this every day! This piece took an Entry Platinum Innovation Award in the Business/Day Wear category.

Temple ring in platinum with a 0.95 ct. brown diamond by Michael Endlich of Pave Fine Jewelry

Temple ring in platinum with a 0.95 ct. brown diamond by Michael Endlich of Pavé Fine Jewelry, entered into Bridal Wear

This piece took an Entry Platinum Innovation award from the Platinum Guild International for its petite status, which makes it affordable. I love the checkerboard cuts on the brown diamond, too, which makes it look super cool and contemporary. And who doesn’t want platinum, the rarest metal on the planet? #bebest #beplatinum

Dreamcatcher pendant necklace in 20k yellow gold with a 42.52 ct. cinnamon-color, cushion-cut zircon with white and gray enamel and diamonds by Buddha Mama

Dreamcatcher pendant necklace in 20k yellow gold with a 42.52 ct. cinnamon-color, cushion-cut zircon with white and gray enamel and diamonds by Buddha Mama, entered in Evening Wear and took a Gem Diva Award in Evening Wear courtesy of the Women’s Jewelry Association (WJA)

Buddha Mama has outdone itself with this masterpiece! I saw this at the Couture show in Las Vegas this year and was blown away. Still am! It’s massive and requires a big personality to wear it. Could it be you?

Aria earrings in purple titanium, 14k white and green VeraGold with 41.45 cts. t.w. indicolite tourmalines, 3.34 cts. t.w. tsavorite garnets, and 2.42 cts. t.w. diamonds by Adam Neeley
Aria earrings in purple titanium, 14k white and green VeraGold with 41.45 cts. t.w. indicolite tourmalines, 3.34 cts. t.w. tsavorite garnets, and 2.42 cts. t.w. diamonds by Adam Neeley

Aria earrings in purple titanium, 14k white and green VeraGold with 41.45 cts. t.w. indicolite tourmalines, 3.34 cts. t.w. tsavorite garnets, and 2.42 cts. t.w. diamonds by Adam Neeley, entered into Evening Wear and took the Fashion Forward award

Adam Neeley doesn’t need to enter more than one piece in any awards competition because each piece he enters is a winner. He is virtually guaranteed to win any contest he enters. Why? He’s just that good. Adam doesn’t mess around. I bet even his earliest jewelry efforts are award-winning in some capacity. I had to try on this pair, which are perfect for long necks.

Magnetic earrings in 14k yellow and white gold with marquise-shape aquamarines and morganites, cultured golden South Sea and akoya pearls, pink sapphires, and blue and colorless diamond briolettes by Mark Loren

Magnetic earrings in 14k yellow and white gold with marquise-shape aquamarines and morganites, cultured golden South Sea and akoya pearls, pink sapphires, and blue and colorless diamond briolettes by Mark Loren, entered into Bridal Wear

I adore these earrings! With all the different harmonious colors, if this pair of earrings were a dress they would be a fun print!


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