Opinion

The 10 Best Heart Jewels of the 2019 Las Vegas Jewelry Shows

New York City. June 11, 2019. Hearts were the most widely featured motif of all the 2019 Las Vegas jewelry trade shows. From small necklace charms to sweet stud earrings, hearts were hot! My favorites, though? All the pendant necklaces with hearts, which provide a prominent perch for maximum viewing pleasure for others.

While the heart jewels shown below are innovative, super pretty, and wearable, many folks have a love-hate relationship with the heart. It’s been abused in some cheaply made designs, thus poisoning the minds of many who think it’s only for kitsch. But with fresh eyes upon the heart, it can recover and gain ground as a covetable silhouette. Some of the designers working with hearts (see jewels below) weigh in on the why behind their chosen symbol.

Theresa Kaz, Theresa Kaz Jewelry

“Two years ago I came across some carved opal hearts at the Tucson gem shows. I didn’t grab them and have regretted it ever since. On the plane home from the shows, I sketched some heart designs with tapered baguettes. Two weeks after the pieces came out of production, a fire burned down our home, and I really felt that my hearts were born out of love after our fire, making them special.”

Krista Trpvovski, Imperfect Grace

“I designed hearts while being pregnant with my son (I’m due at the end of July). I’d never been a heart person before, and it wasn’t about following trends; it was about revealing love and having a second child. My son has been with me through this heart journey! There is a lot of love in our household, and I do tend to channel that in my designs. In fact, I designed this particular heart as a push present to myself.”

Joon Han, Joon Han Jewelry

“I’ve always loved hearts, as I feel hearts express positive emotional energy, such as love, happiness, and gratitude. I had designed heart jewelry for myself and my line, with diamonds and my signature colored gemstones. So, when I came across this beautiful one-of-a-kind watermelon tourmaline heart, I was thrilled! I love how this looks like a double heart representation, with the green heart inside the pink heart…double the love!”

Pin Cushion Heart necklace in 18k gold vermeil with freshwater pearls, $920; Rachel Quinn

Pin Cushion Heart necklace in 18k gold vermeil with freshwater pearls, $920; Rachel Quinn

Textured heart pendant in 14k yellow gold with 0.72 ct. t.w. rubies, $1,990; email info@imperfectgrace.co at Imperfect Grace for purchase.**

Textured heart pendant in 14k yellow gold with 0.72 ct. t.w. rubies, $1,990; email info@imperfectgrace.co at Imperfect Grace for purchase.**

** This piece was designed by the maker as her own push present.

Large Birthstone Puff Heart pendant in 18k yellow gold with pink opal and 0.10 ct. pink sapphire, $2,800; email meaghan@forfuturereference.com at Brent Neale for purchase.

Large Birthstone Puff Heart pendant in 18k yellow gold with pink opal and 0.10 ct. pink sapphire, $2,800; email meaghan@forfuturereference.com at Brent Neale for purchase.

Heart Burst necklace in 18k yellow gold with pink opal, pink sapphire, pink tourmaline, iolite, amethyst, raspberry rhodolite garnet, and diamonds, $3,400; email theresa@theresakazjewelry.com at Theresa Kaz Jewelry for purchase.

Heart Burst necklace in 18k yellow gold with pink opal, pink sapphire, pink tourmaline, iolite, amethyst, raspberry rhodolite garnet, and diamonds, $3,400; email theresa@theresakazjewelry.com at Theresa Kaz Jewelry for purchase.

Lollipop Pendant necklace in 14k yellow gold with a chrysoprase heart and inset rubellite heart, $6,085; email meaghan@forfuturereference.com at Retrouvaí for purchase.

Lollipop Heart pendant necklace in 14k yellow gold with a chrysoprase heart and inset rubellite heart, $6,085; email meaghan@forfuturereference.com at Retrouvaí for purchase.

Heart pendant necklace in 18k yellow gold with a heart-shape Larimar, opal, and 0.11 ct. t.w. diamond on a 30-inch chain, $9,000; email mspalten@gmail.com at M. Spalten for purchase.

Heart pendant necklace in 18k yellow gold with a heart-shape Larimar, opal, and 0.11 ct. t.w. diamond on a 30-inch chain, $9,000; email mspalten@gmail.com at M. Spalten for purchase.

Heart pendant necklace in 18k rose gold with 1.60 cts. t.w. precious gems and 1.12 cts. t.w. diamonds on a Forte candy-inspired beaded gemstone necklace, $14,160 for the necklace as shown; Carolina Bucci
Heart pendant necklace in 18k rose gold with 1.60 cts. t.w. precious gems and 1.12 cts. t.w. diamonds on a Forte candy-inspired beaded gemstone necklace, $14,160 for the necklace as shown; Carolina Bucci

Heart pendant necklace in 18k rose gold with 1.60 cts. t.w. precious gems and 1.12 cts. t.w. diamonds on a Forte candy-inspired beaded gemstone necklace, $14,160 for the necklace as shown; Carolina Bucci

Heart necklace in 18k yellow gold with a 38 ct. heart-shape opal, 12.5 cts. t.w. baguette- and pear-shape tourmalines, $13,640; email info@christinaalexiou.com at Christina Alexiou for purchase.

Heart necklace in 18k yellow gold with a 38 ct. heart-shape opal, 12.5 cts. t.w. baguette- and pear-shape tourmalines, $13,640; email info@christinaalexiou.com at Christina Alexiou for purchase.

Heart pendant in 14k and 18k yellow gold with a 46 ct. watermelon tourmaline and 0.10 ct. t.w. diamonds, $14,950; email joonhanjewelry@gmail.com at Joon Han for purchase

Heart pendant in 14k and 18k yellow gold with a 46 ct. watermelon tourmaline and 0.10 ct. t.w. diamonds, $14,950; email joonhanjewelry@gmail.com at Joon Han for purchase

Necklace in platinum with a 111 ct. heart-shape black diamond and 10 cts. t.w. colorless pavé, $90,000; email Victoria@VictoriaTse.com at VTse for purchase.

Necklace in platinum with a 111 ct. heart-shape black diamond and 10 cts. t.w. colorless pavé, $90,000; email Victoria@VictoriaTse.com at VTse for purchase.


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Opinion

The 13 Key Jewelry Looks of Las Vegas 2019: New Jewelry Summary, Report, & Trends from the Sin City Shows

Las Vegas, June 6, 2019. After a week in Las Vegas working North America’s most significant jewelry shows, I’m rejuvenated from seeing myriad friends and insanely gorgeous new styles, but I’m also thrilled to return to the humidity of summer in the Northeast where my skin will no longer crack from the bone-dry desert heat. Along with a renewed affinity for heavy moisture in the air, I bring back a thorough summary on new looks and trends spied at the booths of some of the brightest design talents in jewelry. Many are what I expected to see—bold gold and cool chain links, among others—while there are a few emerging aesthetics on the horizon. Read on to check out my designer jewelry report on JCK LUXURY, JCK Las Vegas, Couture, and Premier.

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Oversize earrings. These were abundant across the shows. From Paraiba slices in gold at Trésor in the Design Center at JCK Las Vegas to massive diamond beauties at VTse at JCK Luxury, there was no shortage of statement earrings to shop.

Oversize earrings from VTse are in gold with black and colorless diamonds

Oversize earrings from VTse are in gold with black and colorless diamonds

Rose gold. Incredibly, rose gold is making a splash outside of the commitment ring category! Certain lines—Arik Kastan and Carla Amorim, among others—are known for their love of it, but now more designers are committing to a bigger investment in pink. Rahaminov, Julez Bryant, and Lika Behar (with her Peach Glow gold) are among them.

Ring in rose gold with praisiolite and green quartz from Carla Amorim

Ring in rose gold with praisiolite and green quartz from Carla Amorim

Keiko Mita jewelry

Hearts. This was, hands down, the most widely featured motif of the shows! I think hearts developed a bad rap from serving as fixtures in weekly newspaper circulars à la $99 diamond hearts, but the hearts on display in this year’s shows were off-the-charts exciting. Think lollipop-size rainbow-imbued numbers with fancy-shape gemstone halos and countless carved gem specimens ready to steal the viewer’s affections. TBT, my own heart fetish was born last summer when I purchased a natural heart-shape golden pearl from the Philippines and had little h. jewelry carve a few recycled rubies into it. And at this show, I purchased a pair of puffed heart drop earrings with pearls from Rachel Quinn. Once my friend and jewelry designer guru Liz Kanter learned of the move, she purchased a similar pair—#twinning.

Jen Heebner and Liz Kanter in new heart earrings from Rachel Quinn

Jen Heebner and Liz Kantner in new heart earrings from Rachel Quinn

Chain links. I talked about these before the shows, and new chain link styles were readily available at many booths. From Buddha Mama’s new high-karat gold bracelets to elegant crown-work-inspired oxidized sterling and gold-kissed necklaces from Ray Griffiths to chunky sterling-and-diamond-accented pieces from TAP by Todd Pownell, many a cool link could be found on the show floors.  

Gorgeous new link bracelets in gold with enamel and diamonds from Buddha Mama

Gorgeous new link bracelets in gold with enamel and diamonds from Buddha Mama

Bypass hoop earrings. So many artists had these styles! Think Nak Armstrong, Kavant & Sharat, Trésor, and more. The look is a good one for many women, and it’s also easy to execute in high-end and more attainable materials. Hoops are being interpreted in many variations nowadays, and the bypass style—like a bypass ring, the hoop doesn’t completely meet its opposing end but passes it—is a modern way to wear a timeless look.

Bypass hoops in gold with precious gems from Sorellina

Bypass hoops in gold with precious gems from Sorellina

Save a street dog's life this summer.

Cool pearls. Pearls are underappreciated and have untapped potential for merchants and fashion enthusiasts! Full disclosure: I am the part-time executive director for the Cultured Pearl Association of America (CPAA), but I am seeing a lot of designers work with pearls who never before did. The reason? Same as collectors who love them—variety and beauty. (Check out the 2019 Pearls supplement I helped to create for CPAA at this link.)

New earrings from Assael feature Tahitian pearls and kunzite

New earrings from Assael feature Tahitian pearls and kunzite

Good stories. I can’t remember another year when the artists and their new works had so many great stories to tell! Sure, Lydia Courteille is known for fabricating a good tale—and a remarkable jewel—but many other artists, particularly emerging ones, got the good story memo and went to town with it. State Property had literary stories to tell, Anna Maccieri Rossi had super-clever time-inspired ones, Marcia Budet had museum-worthy narratives, Soulbound had video game yarns, and Rachel Quinn had heartbreak accounts. For sure, this jewelry storyteller has plenty of content for months to come.

Necklace from Anna Maccieri Rossi depicts a wolf howling at a moonstone moon.

Necklace from Anna Maccieri Rossi depicts a wolf howling at a moonstone moon.

Fringe. Chic fringe-like chain accents were noticeable in the collections of many, including Nak Armstrong, Fern Freeman (fringe is practically her signature), and Andrea Blais. Fringe speaks to the 80s-inspired fashion that’s happening now and has obvious affinities to flirty effects. Assael, too, got in on the sassiness with fringe- or tassel-like earrings with gemstones and pearls.

I'm completely obsessed with these new Fringe earrings from Andrea Blais!

I’m completely obsessed with these new Fringe earrings from Andrea Blais!

Neutral colors. Industry is loving its gray spinels, blue Montana sapphires, matte finishes of metals, icy jade and diamonds, and other materials that offer an understated color palette. Neutrals go with everything and offer a tone-on-tone effect (more on that later) for lovers of black, tan, gray, and white in fashion. Syna had a number of new jewels in neutral colors as did Federica Rettore.

New horn mismatched earrings with gold and diamonds from Federica Rettore

New horn mismatched earrings with gold and diamonds from Federica Rettore

Whimsical motifs. Happy skulls, origami, butterflies, hearts, animals, and bright colors of enamel are among the many playful aesthetics unveiled at the shows. Jewelry today is largely lighthearted, expressive, colorful (retailer resistance to colored stone collections has lifted!) and growing more approachable by the day. This is what’s needed to make collectors feel more at home in the category. BTW, Aisha Baker’s enamel lips—complete with rainbow teeth—were giving me life at Couture!

Super fun lips from Aisha Baker

Super fun lips from Aisha Baker

Happy skull in enamel, gold, and diamonds from Buddha Mama

Happy skull in enamel, gold, and diamonds from Buddha Mama

On the horizon: Bicolor (or multicolor) gems. Designers are loving a pronounced bicolor gem or one that features more than a single hue in one stone! The tourmaline and ametrine from Amáli are top of mind, but with an astute enough eye you’ll notice bicolor pearls, agates, and quartzes at Christina Alexiou and Guita M, among others.

Watermelon tourmaline heart necklace with a gemstone halo from Christina Alexiou

Watermelon tourmaline heart necklace with a gemstone halo from Christina Alexiou

Photo courtesy Christina Alexiou

On the horizon: Tone-on-tone aesthetics. Think white pearls with white opal at Nadine Aysoy and Elie Top, and icy moonstone with white pearls at Mastoloni. These are companion pieces to all the neutral colors of commitment rings that have been trending.

Earrings with white opal, white pearls, and colorless diamonds from Nadine Aysoy

Earrings with white opal, white pearls, and colorless diamonds from Nadine Aysoy

On the horizon: Volume. Pieces with mass were impressively executed. Mattia Cielo specializes in big and bold, but a slinky-like bracelet was both OTT and an engineering feat. Meanwhile, Rachel Quinn’s puffed silver and vermeil hearts were like playful pin cushions—some set with freshwater pearls—while Guita M’s oversize beads offered maximum stylish capacity in muted colors.

New bracelets with volume from Mattia Cielo in gold and diamonds

New bracelets with volume from Mattia Cielo in gold and diamonds

Necklace with volume in gold with diamonds and pearls from Mike Joseph

Necklace with volume in gold with diamonds and pearls from Mike Joseph

Photo courtesy Couture


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Opinion

All Signs Point to Vegas: Designers I’m Looking Forward to Seeing at the Shows This Week

New York City, May 28, 2019. Tonight I’ll be flying to Sin City, armed with an appointment calendar, a Mophie, and comfortable shoes, among other items in my suitcase. I’m heading to the most important jewelry trade-only shows in North America—JCK Las Vegas, Couture, and Premier—and I’m ecstatic about seeing industry friends and over-the-moon excited at the prospect of eyeballing new collections.

In all the interviews I’ve conducted for the myriad trade publications I write for—including Rapaport, The Jewelry Book, and The Retail Jeweler—every subject was upbeat about business to be had this year. Thankfully, I’ve also nabbed a peek at some of the new collections that will debut and have a heads-up about artisans who’ll be exhibiting. The following is a summary of just a few of those I’m particularly pumped to see.

The Greek Jewelry Designers at JCK LUXURY & JCK Las Vegas

A contingent of about 15 Greek jewelry designers will be new exhibitors at JCK LUXURY and JCK Las Vegas. You may already be familiar with the crazy gorgeous work of Nikos Koulis at Couture, or recall seeing Christina Soubli’s work on this site last week. But this fresh crop of designers will offer another chance to see the kind of jewelry talent of which Greece’s artists are capable. Below is a snapshot of five you can find at the JCK shows. Click here to see the entire list of participants.

Bloody Panther Claws ring in 18k gold with enamel and 0.11 ct. diamonds, $910; email fran@benaliconsulting.com at Honor Omano (LUX30083F) for purchase

Catherine chandelier earrings in 18k white gold with 12.62 cts. t.w. multicolor sapphire drops, $8,400; email fran@benaliconsulting.com at FaCad’oro (LUX30083I) for purchase

Explosion collection ring in 14k rose gold with a red tourmaline center stone, rubies, pink sapphires, and 0.34 ct. t.w. diamonds, $4,200; email fran@benaliconsulting.com at Anomy (JCK Las Vegas 46058) for purchase

Windflowers bracelet in 18k yellow gold, $18,000; email fran@benaliconsulting.com at Samoli (LUX30083A) for purchase

Limited-edition Cherry Blossom necklace from the Kyoto collection is in 18k white and rose gold with 19.8 cts. t.w. colorless and brown diamonds and pink sapphires, $55,000; email fran@benaliconsulting.com at Maureen Maris (LUX30083H) for purchase

Keiko Mita fine jewelry

Designers at Premier

There are so many designers I’m eager to see at the new Premier show at the Las Vegas Convention Center, but I’ll just share a couple with you for the sake of efficiency. Premier is a fantastic option for talented artists who are not quite ready for Couture but want to stand out a bit more than in the massive halls of JCK. Premier is attracting some—like the two below—who haven’t exhibited at any of the Las Vegas shows in a while, so I’m thrilled to see their return.

Drop earrings in 18k yellow gold with pink sapphires, tourmalines, and colorless diamonds, $12,350; email fernfree@aol.com at Fern Freeman (Booth #2401 Premier) for purchase

Grand Chandelier earrings in sterling silver with labradorite accents, €480; Laurent Gandini (Booth #2803)

Editor’s note: I bought this pair for myself earlier this year!

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Designers at Couture

Couture is absolutely magical. It’s hallowed ground for jewelry talent and the No. 1 destination for stores that want to carry the most compelling jewelry designs on the market. The halls are filled with so much beauty and ingenuity that working the show almost feels like a sacred experience. Verklempt? You bet—Couture will do that to most of its visitors. Here are five of the most badass artists you can see at that fair.

Mosaic necklace in oxidized sterling silver with faceted lapis, $2,950; Nak Armstrong (#1101) at Twist

Fluid bracelet in 18k white gold with black rhodium, a marquise-shape black onyx, and 0.24 ct. t.w. colorless diamonds, $3,900; Fernando Jorge (#1203) at Quadrum Gallery

Cocktail ring in 18k rose gold with rose-cut black diamonds, $4,750; Etho Maria (#423) at Soho Gem

Earrings in 18k white gold with diamonds and translucent enamel, $4,920; Nikos Koulis (#802) at Neiman Marcus

Egg earrings in 18k white gold with 30.48 cts. t.w. blue sapphires, 2.01 cts. t.w. diamonds, and 1.07 cts. t.w. tsavorite garnet, $75,300; Arunashi (#912) at Sabbia


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Opinion

Live from SIHH: I’m at a Watch Show and It’s So Civilized That I Might Be in Love

Geneva, Jan. 17, 2019. Hello Geneva! I attended the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) Genève, held Jan. 14–17, this week to cover watches, an area I haven’t written about at length in some time. I have covered jewelry trends for 22 years, though, and one of the outlets for which I write asked me to add watches to my beat.

Not a problem, especially since it involves attending this über exclusive fair. I hear the vetting process for journalists to cover it is more restrictive than the jewelry trade fairs I attend because it features only luxury watch brands owned by Richemont, the publicly held group of lux holdings like Van Cleef & Arpels. Of course, not just any retailers can show up, either—they must be invited by brands to attend.

To advertise, contact Nicole@thejewelrybook.com.

Thankfully, I made the cut, and with laptop and notebook in hand, I flew to Geneva ready to work. Since it was a new show to me, I reached out to my colleague Carol Besler, a longtime watch journalist who writes for Forbes, Journal Haute Horlogerie, and Watch Journal, among others, for the lowdown. “There’s a master schedule of brand appointments—no need to run from one appointment to the next like you do at Baselworld,” she explained about the process for seeing the new watches. [For those who don’t know, Baselworld is another important watch show that happens in Basel, Switzerland.]

One of the stands at SIHH.
Photo courtesy SIHH @ NENCIOLI Gilbert & MORVAN Alain

I’ve never been much for making appointments at my jewelry shows—you inevitably get thrown off schedule after the first one because you have to stop for so many familiar faces in the hallways—so I didn’t really have an opinion. When I hit the show floor, though, and realized how this master schedule would affect my daily routine, I was wishing that every show would mandate this type of scheduling. It’s so civilized! And while there are admittedly far fewer brands to cover at this show than most others I attend, there’s no running around like a crazy person because you have one appointment an hour, giving you plenty of time in between to find your next booth or have a coffee or champagne (all flowing generously, thank you, Richemont).

A lion watch featuring hundreds of wood chips from Vacheron Constantin.
A lion watch featuring hundreds of wood chips from Vacheron Constantin.

The appointments themselves were efficient, and at times, amusing. All the journalists were escorted into large rooms with ample seating and myriad different themes, from dark movie-theatre-like environments to bright, beach cabana-esque patio-like setups with the heat of 1,000 suns pumping in. (Eventually, somebody found the a.c. unit, thank God.) There were presentations with speakers and videos, and everyone had the same opportunity to handle the pieces and snap photos for social media and get a press kit. It was a pleasant way to cover a show.

To advertise, contact Nicole@thejewelrybook.com.

And the amusement? Presentations from the brand representatives who unveiled new works ranged from monotone to corny to distracted—one guy enthusiastically mentioned the word “threesome” at least six times by the time I realized he was hell bent on repeating it. (At least he was talking about a watch.) Some of these folks were comfortable in front of a crowd while others awkwardly followed scripts written for them. Compared to my hurried jewelry presentations where you digest a year’s worth of an artist’s commitment in five minutes in order to race to your next appointment to try to see as many brands as you can in eight hours—whew!—this show had some quality entertainment with time to spare for bubbles. I like that.

The interior of the Richard Mille booth spoke to its
playful new collection surrounding sweets.
Photo courtesy SIHH @ NENCIOLI Gilbert & MORVAN Alain

Anyway, I’ll put these first-world issues behind me and dive into some watch coverage. Not surprisingly, this jewelry editor was most jazzed about the collections that had strong stories and/or lots of jewels. Stay tuned for some of my favorite lines in the days ahead.

 A new Bovet watch
A new Bovet watch shot by yours truly.
Drop earrings in 14k yellow gold with purple garnets and diamonds, $1,300 at K.Jon’s

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