Personalities

Collector Obsession: Christine’s Love of Art Deco Jewelry

Scottsdale, Ariz. Nov. 12, 2018. Interior designer Christine, from Scottsdale, Ariz., may specialize in color consulting for home décor, but her taste in fine jewelry is more monochromatic. That’s because she loves Art Deco jewels thanks to fond memories of her grandmother’s collection, including a Japanese pearl necklace given to her at age 10. Another treasured piece and memory? Her grandmother’s Art Deco-style engagement ring, which she now owns. “I love the geometric motifs that you can wear and live with,” she explains.

Her love of period jewels was enhanced during several geographic moves made earlier in life. For a while Christine lived in New York City, discovering estate pieces in the Diamond District. Around this time, at age 30, Christine made her own first significant jewelry purchase, a platinum Art Deco ring with an old mine cut diamond and two rectangular baguettes on either side.

A vintage ring set that Christine bought for herself.

A vintage ring set that Christine bought for herself.

“It was my divorce present to me, and it just screams Art Deco,” she says. I bought it from Macy’s on 34th Street in their estate section. I think it’s an F color with only one or two small inclusions.”

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When she moved to Stanford, Calif., she purchased a three-stone diamond ring in a linear pattern with scrolls that her second husband called “gaudy.” But Christine knew better. She was rewarded for her style savvy with myriad accolades from passersby. “Everyone would stop me on the street and grab my hand to see it,” she says.

A three-stone diamond ring in a linear pattern with scrolls that Christine purchased for herself.

A three-stone diamond ring in a linear pattern with scrolls that Christine purchased for herself.

For sure, the symmetry of the silhouettes (think circles, squares, and rectangles) drew her in, and splashes of color make styles even more appealing. This is why she’s also a fan of costume jewelry designer Heidi Daus and bridge or demi-fine designer Stephen Dweck, from whom she made a recent purchase. “I bought myself a Cleopatra-style collar necklace of his in silver with a long, thin rectangular-shape smoky topaz from Neiman Marcus,” she says.

Vintage-inspired earrings in Christine's personal jewelry collection.

Vintage-inspired earrings in Christine’s personal jewelry collection.

Still, the bulk of her collection is white gold and platinum with cooler-color gems mixed in as well as the occasional Adriana Orsini fashion number with CZ.

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“Jewelry is wearable art, and the pieces I like are not for tiny girls,” Christine explains. “I always feel so lucky when I look down at my rings and wrists. I never take my collection for granted, and I never get tired of looking at it.”

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Temptations

Christine’s collection of Art Deco jewels continues to expand, but she’s also eager to learn about contemporary designers with similar aesthetics. Here are five more pieces that could appeal to her obsession and keep her collecting.

Zoe vintage-inspired hexagon-silhouette signet ring in 18k yellow gold with 0.15 ct. t.w. Old European-cut diamonds on the frame, $5,000; Single Stone

Zoe vintage-inspired hexagon-silhouette signet ring in 18k yellow gold with 0.15 ct. t.w. Old European-cut diamonds on the frame, $5,000; Single Stone

Goshwara bracelet

Gossip bracelet in 18k yellow gold with 15.58 cts. t.w. blue topaz, 11.84 cts. t.w. lemon quartz, 11.68 cts. t.w. lilac amethyst, 11.65 cts. t.w. citrine, 11.54 cts. t.w. prasiolite, 11.32 cts. t.w. amethyst, 11.21 cts. t.w. smoky quartz; and 0.46 ct. t.w. diamonds on the toggle clasp, $7,900; Goshwara at Jewelstreet 

Harlow cocktail ring in 18k yellow gold with a rock crystal center stone, 0.81 ct. t.w. black diamonds, and baguette-cut emeralds, $6,850; Doryn Wallach

Harlow cocktail ring in 18k yellow gold with a rock crystal center stone, 0.81 ct. t.w. black diamonds, and baguette-cut emeralds, $6,850; Doryn Wallach

Art Deco Statement necklace in 18k yellow gold with 1.62 cts. t.w. diamonds, $9,900; Lauren Harper

Art Deco Statement necklace in 18k yellow gold with 1.62 cts. t.w. diamonds, $9,900; Lauren Harper

 

Starburst Drop earrings in 18k gold with black rhodium, 23.93 cts. t.w. pear-shape tanzanite, 14.7 cts. t.w. blue sapphires and 4.21 cts. t.w. diamonds, $14,900; Sutra

Starburst Drop earrings in 18k gold with black rhodium, 23.93 cts. t.w. pear-shape tanzanite, 14.7 cts. t.w. blue sapphires and 4.21 cts. t.w. diamonds, $14,900; Sutra at London Jewelers 

 

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Personalities

Meet Lori Friedman of Lorianne Jewelry and Her Watercolor-Inspired and Sea-Glasslike Designs

NEW YORK. Lori Friedman fondly remembers going antiquing for vintage jewelry with her mother, an experience that she says informed a career decision. The artist behind Westport, Conn.-based Loriann Jewelry secured a fine arts degree in college and worked as a graphic designer before redesigning some old ivory—the real stuff when it was legal to sell. Then she took beading and wire-wrapping instruction, in between raising three kids and turning out the occasional watercolor.

Then her jewelry work picked up, with Friedman selling beaded styles to a local fine jewelry store in 2001. When the economy went sideways in 2008, Friedman pivoted to pavé-and-gold numbers, admittedly in a basic style manufactured by many. Still, it paid the bills, well enough to pave the way for her next act—a much more thoughtful, distinct, and colorful collection of jewels.

Tickled by her own handiwork, she took her newfound freshness to a small trade show in New York City, where longtime journalist and author Beth Bernstein of Bejeweledmag.com found her. Bernstein, a seasoned market editor, saw a glimmer of an emerging collection with a strong theme. With the editor’s coaching, Friedman brought to life her most compelling designs yet. This is the most interesting move to date in Friedman’s story: she had been an established jewelry maker for 15 years before that caterpillar part of her journey cocooned and emerged as the beautiful butterfly of a collection we know her for today.

“Beth pushed me to pursue a new look,” recalls Friedman. “So, within three months I had put together a gold collection that won the Mort Abelson New Designer of the Year award at the 2017 summer Jewelers of America show. I kept on saving up from the pavé line to produce this one.”

Her signature style now is clear: watercolor-like gems set atop pastel-colored stones in 14k gold. While her rocks are faceted, some look more like beach glass than sliced stone due to their watery hues. “I love the translucency of the way the stones look—like one of my watercolors,” she explains.

Even when pieces don’t bear her gem-on-gem trademark, such as in her Provence collection of sinuous gold-and-gem numbers, they still reflect her soft color palette and a fluidity unique to her.

Pieces are made by bench jewelers in the U.S. and abroad, and retail prices start at just $650.

Jewelry Designer Lori Friedman of Loriann Jewelry

Jewelry Designer Lori Friedman of Loriann Jewelry

 

Double-drop earrings in 14k rose gold with gray moonstone, apatite, and diamonds, $1,980; Loriann Jewelry

Double-drop earrings in 14k rose gold with gray moonstone, apatite, and diamonds, $1,980; Loriann Jewelry
For purchase: Call the Westport, Conn., location of Mitchells at 203-227-5165

 

Ring in 14k rose gold with moonstone, tanzanite, and diamonds, $2,205; Loriann Jewelry

Ring in 14k rose gold with moonstone, tanzanite, and diamonds, $2,205; Loriann Jewelry
For purchase: Call the Westport, Conn., location of Mitchells at 203-227-5165

 

Necklace in 14k yellow gold with a horn-shape prasiolite, fire opal, tanzanite, and diamonds, $3,250; Loriann Jewelry

Necklace in 14k yellow gold with a horn-shape prasiolite, fire opal, tanzanite, and diamonds, $3,250; Loriann Jewelry
For purchase: Call the Westport, Conn., location of Mitchells at 203-227-5165

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Personalities

Collector Obsession: Christy’s Love of David Yurman Jewelry

ROYERSFORD, Pa. It was 16 years ago when Christy first spied jewelry from David Yurman. A cousin of the young mom and account rep for a financial services firm was wearing a stack of Yurman bangles in silver and gold, and Christy admired the details of the high-polish and oxidized-silver mix.

“I could see myself wearing them on casual occasions or dressed up to go out,” she recalls.

Around that time, Christy was about to deliver her second child, so she asked her husband, Scott, for a push present: one of those bangles. He chose an open number in silver with Yurman’s signature end caps in 18k yellow gold. Christy loved it and couldn’t wait to wear it to the next big social event on their calendar.

Today, Christy’s collection of Yurman pieces has grown in number to match the age of her son: 15! Getting a Yurman piece has become a ritual every holiday, and some years she simply bought some for herself.

“I have a ring in silver and gold that was a self-purchase after we earned partnerships at work,” she explains. “I went to Benari’s [in Exton, Pa.] to purchase it, but it had sold by the time I got there. So Scott bought me a bangle instead, and the store reordered the ring for me to buy later.”

More pieces include blue topaz and diamond studs and a matching enhancer necklace (purchased to wear to her brother’s wedding), a garnet enhancer, and an interchangeable pendant outlined in diamonds. She also has a silver link bracelet that she often wears with a bangle. “I like the weight of them,” she says.

Christy is such a brand ambassador that she inspires purchases among others. “There’s a girl at work in her mid-20s and she has Yurman jewelry, too—including a new silver ring that I just got,” she says. “Yurman is versatile, and not so elite that it is out of reach for a working 25- to 45-year-old.”

Yurman is also recognizable. At a charity golf outing at the end of the summer, a former Penn State football player noticed Christy’s stack of bracelets and asked, “Are those Yurman?” Christy laughed and told him yes. “It made my day!” she exclaims. “Some people recognize the brand and others don’t, but it always feels like a million bucks when people do.”

Sterling silver and black ceramic David Yurman necklace in Christy’s personal collection

Sterling silver and black ceramic David Yurman necklace in Christy’s personal collection

 

Silver bangle and silver and 18k gold ring from Yurman in Christy’s collection

Silver bangle and silver and 18k gold ring from Yurman in Christy’s collection

 

More pieces from Christy’s own jewel box

More pieces from Christy’s own jewel box

 

Temptations

Christy loves collecting David Yurman jewelry, but she’s also open to learning about other designers with equally chic aesthetics. Here are five more pieces that could appeal to her obsession and keep her collecting.

Beloved locket pendant necklace Lagos in sterling silver with 18k yellow gold accents and 0.41 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,500; Lagos

Beloved locket pendant necklace Lagos in sterling silver with 18k yellow gold accents and 0.41 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,500; Lagos

Classic Chain Dome ring in sterling silver with 1.12 cts. t.w. diamonds, $3,700; John Hardy

Classic Chain Dome ring in sterling silver with 1.12 cts. t.w. diamonds, $3,700; John Hardy

Dantela stud earrings in 18k white gold with 1 cts. t.w. diamonds, $3,390; Tacori

Dantela stud earrings in 18k white gold with 1 cts. t.w. diamonds, $3,390; Tacori

Groumette Link ring in 18k white and yellow gold with 0.27 ct. t.w. diamonds, $3,400; Roberto Coin

Groumette Link ring in 18k white and yellow gold with 0.27 ct. t.w. diamonds, $3,400; Roberto Coin

 

Marilyn black ceramic and 18k yellow gold link bracelet, $7,760; Monica Rich Kosann

Marilyn black ceramic and 18k yellow gold link bracelet, $7,760; Monica Rich Kosann

 

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Personalities

Meet Ani Shirinian of Victoria Six Jewelry

NEW YORK. Ani Shirinian has a passion for pearls. The force behind the two-year-old Victoria Six Jewelry, a moniker comprising her middle name and lucky number, designs “modern pearl jewelry with a retro flare,” she explains.

Shirinian, who was raised by a grandmother fluent in couture clothing design, recalls playfully wrapping herself in spools of French lace and falling hard for ever-present ropes of pearls in the matriarch’s Hollywood, Calif.–based studio.

“I learned from her that pearls went with everything I had to wear,” she recollects.

Ani Shirinian of Victoria Six Jewelry

Ani Shirinian of Victoria Six Jewelry

As an adult, Shirinian became a lawyer, but eventually traded family law for clothing design to follow in grandmother’s fashionable footsteps. That is, until a chance encounter with the late Michael Bogosian of Michael B., renowned for his micro-pavé, led her to rediscover jewelry.

“He taught me every step of the business where I worked for him for the remaining seven years of his life,” she says.

Bogosian’s diamond-intense business brought her to major trade shows, where she always found time to shop for pearl jewelry. But it was also in this sea of trade-fair stands that she struggled to find the fresh, fun pearl designs she wanted—a quest so important that she decided to pursue it herself.

“I never found cool pearl jewelry that was modern but still classic,” she says. She also wasn’t impressed with the silver settings that well-known designers were using with pearls—she wanted gold. “Pearls just felt so neglected,” she laments.

Today she sketches looks and works closely with masters of 3D technology in Los Angeles to bring her pieces to life in 14k or 18k gold. From freshwater to akoya to Tahitians, pearls (and the occasional gemstone) are a key part of contemporary styles like cuff bangles with negative space, whimsical cluster styles, and shepherd’s crook drop-hoop earrings. Her signature? Vintage-kissed (think 1960s- and 1970s-inspired funkiness) pearl-bead effects in metal that are complemented by pearls. Whimsy and bold flair are also abundant, and each piece aims to be as fresh in 50 years as it is today. What’s more, retail prices in 14k gold start at just $180—a more-than-fair entry price for a fashionable but timeless piece of fine pearl jewelry.

Viola bracelet in 14k rose gold fits a 7-inch wrist and has 5 7 mm. freshwater pearls, $282; Victoria Six Jewelry

Viola bracelet in 14k rose gold fits a 7-inch wrist and has 5 7 mm. freshwater pearls, $282

Penrose earrings in 14k rose gold with 8 mm. freshwater button-shape pearls, $694; Victoria Six Jewelry

Penrose earrings in 14k rose gold with 8 mm. freshwater button-shape pearls, $694

 

 

Victoria ring in 14k rose gold with an 11 ct. pear-shape morganite with 20 3.3 mm. akoya pearls, $5,200; Victoria Six Jewelry

Victoria ring in 14k rose gold with an 11 ct. pear-shape morganite with 20 3.3 mm. akoya pearls, $5,200

 

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