New York City, May 29, 2019. In the quest to develop never-before-seen jewels, Margery Hirschey decided to go long—as in really long (upwards of six inches)—and three-dimensional in her new Orpheus earring collection.
Long drops are already a focal point of Hirschey’s work, which isn’t surprising given that the artist has the silhouette to wear them; her giraffe-like neckline puts every pair on a regal pedestal. But she also likes a production challenge.
“It’s easy to lay out flat pieces, but earrings are hanging sculptures with movement, so they should be 3D,” she says.
As she wrapped her mind around possibilities and researched looks, the ones she liked turned out to be Bauhausy. Hirschey suspected she knew the reason why: a Wassily Kandinsky retrospective she’d seen as a child was still burned in the back of her mind, even though it had been four decades since first saw it. So she let this memory guide her and the design of the new collection.
To wit, the name Orpheus refers to a Greek god but also to the school of modern art of which Kandinsky was a devotee. You can literally see the lines and movement of Composition VIII in the sway of Hirschey’s Orpheus styles—two single earrings, one pair, and some studs (at the request of her daughter). “My daughter said, ‘Mom, not everyone can wear these long earrings,’” laughs Hirschey.
And while Hirschey’s work is often in 22k gold, Orpheus is in 18k gold for weight.
“It’s lighter on the ear, and I like the color,” she says.
Accent stones include rubies, diamonds, and labradorites. Why labs? They’re often available in rectangular shapes, which appeal to the maker’s modern sensibility.
Studs retail for $900 as singles or $1,800 for two, while the priciest pair costs $11,000.
Orpheus stud earrings in 18k yellow gold with 0.06 ct. t.w. diamonds, $900 for one or $1,800 for a pair; email email@example.com for purchase
Six-inch-long single earring in 18k yellow gold with 3.03 cts. t.w. labradorite and 0.60 ct. t.w. diamonds, $9,900 for one earring; email firstname.lastname@example.org for purchase
Earring pair in in 18k yellow gold are three inches in length with 4.58 cts. t.w. ruby and 0.30 ct. t.w. diamonds, $11,000; email email@example.com for purchase
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