Karat Gold & Colored Stones Rule the Jewelry Landscape

By Jennifer Heebner

The past year has been crazy with the highest gold prices the industry has ever seen. Top-end makers insist that gold is selling well, regardless of cost, while colored gemstones finally have their spotlight moment. After years of retail disinterest, the category of color is moving onto turf long reserved for diamonds because of synthetics and the erratic prices they created.

Industry started to see the rise of color about two years ago, after lab-grown diamonds all but took over the engagement ring market. Lab-grown diamonds are about half of all centers sold today in engagement rings, as consumers no longer see a reason to pay more than double for a diamond pulled out of the ground. The flip side is the job market created by naturals, a super important point that many consumers disregard, but that the Natural Diamond Council combats daily through its ample marketing budget and consumer-facing initiatives.

Color has become so hot that diamond dealers have been buying into the category, and prices of goods continue to rise sharply. New top-quality material is hard to find and expensive to obtain, and the values of those gems once acquired keep rising, unlike the white or colorless diamond category. Even the auction houses are seeing a boom in colored stone sales, and many designers are embracing more under-appreciated gems—think hard stones and minerals like malachite and sunstone. Interestingly, high-end designers are dabbling in some of these more widely available gems, a testament to their innovative design prowess but also a nod to the fact that the stones are abundant and less expensive than the Big Three and the New Big Three—Spinel, Garnet, and Tourmaline.

Materials of Note

Despite the cost, gold remains the metal of choice for most high-end artisans, though next-level designers like Adam Neeley are leaning into titanium for its light weight and flexibility. Given that colored gems are available in such a wide range of prices, many houses are digging into more common varieties; have you see the ads for Prada Jewelry that feature amethyst, peridot, and morganite? In minerals, emerging designers to established houses—Eleux to David Webb to Vak Jewels—take advantage of pretty and hard-to-price-shop hard stones.

In gems, garnets are exploding in popularity because of their range of colors and still accessible price points. Dealers have been telling me that prices of orange or spessartite garnet have skyrocketed, and I see demand for demantoid garnet and tsavorite garnet also increasing as the latter are not widely available. Not long ago, Tiffany & Co. unveiled a stunning tennis necklace with half diamonds and half demantoid garnet; that model shot is burned into my memory because it was so gorgeous!

Materials that I see on the horizon include opalescent and milky gems—a topic I’ll soon write about for AGTA—as well as a diminished stigma on fluorescence in gems. Misfit Diamonds is a pioneer in in this space, building a business on less-pristine diamonds and sapphires that are included and off-color—and fluorescent—and cut in fancy shapes. I also saw quite a few milky gems at the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair last fall, and since then, have seen some hazy beauties land in designer collections in the U.S. market. This is another way gem dealers and artists are making use of materials that are considered more abundant and affordable, by spinning negative aspects into unique ones.

Styles & Trends

I’m seeing a lot of juicy, oversize, colored gemstones in the market, especially ones that are custom cut or cut by carvers with unique signature styles. At the high end, makers are utilizing big, abundant gems like quartz, amethyst, and others as showpieces in designs. Some artists, like Robin Callahan, even make custom carved gems the star of every jewel they make.

Bold sizes and graphic silhouettes are everywhere in line necklaces and cocktail rings, as are massive drop and hoop earrings that scream for attention. You’ll find many outrageously gorgeous and unique designs at COUTURE, but JCK has its share of fun looks and timeless lines, too. Consider Trésor Collection for color in gold, Vianna Brasil for playful designs made to wear to your next Samba class, and plenty of ultra-lux collections within the LUXURY show, which continues to serve up lots of business to exhibitors. Last year, I was there on opening day at 9:45 a.m.—the show opened at 9:30 a.m.—and the floor was packed. I couldn’t speak to anyone, which bodes well for all of us in industry.

10 Don’t-Miss Designers in Las Vegas

If you’re heading to Sin City next week, here’s a list of designers that I think have something special to offer.

L’Atelier Nawbar

Seems like every jewelry designer has talismans in their line, but the design duo behind this collection has some that are more interesting than most. Some are folkloric, others are whimsical, still more are campy, and all are adorable. The rest of their looks are super diverse—from sculptural pieces in yellow gold to the widest range of hoops I’ve ever seen. Check out the collection at COUTURE in Salon #715.

Source: @lateliarnawbar

Shinkai Jewelry

Designs from this Japanese collection are sweet, modest, and wearable with sculptural effects and plenty of cultured pearls and salt-and-pepper diamonds. I love how they mix tiny colored gemstone beads in between traditional white pearls on strands, their abundant use of yellow gold, and thoughtful uses of keshi pearls as pendants. Find the line at COUTURE in the Design Atelier booth #DA-16.

Source: @shinkai_jewelry

Campbell & Charlotte

This line is pure joy in colored gemstones and gold! I love the line’s Revel pavé bead necklaces that are like little disco balls, and chunky little flowers in mixed colors. They also have modern classic pieces and very cool uses of custom-cut opaque gems like turquoise. See the jewelry in person at COUTURE in the Design Atelier booth #DA-20.

Source: @campbellandcharlotte

Ten Thousand Things

This collection has some of the most striking silhouettes I’ve ever seen in custom-cut gemstone jewelry. Their chandelier earrings are instantly recognizable and a spectacular contemporary design. The custom gem cuts extend to hoop earrings as well, while metal effects are sculptural and fabulous. See the jewels at COUTURE in Salon #409.

Source: @tenthousandthings

Talkative

This is another Japanese line with custom-cut gemstones in hoop earrings and some super layerable and wearable yellow gold designs. Designs have matte finishes, clever uses of pearls, and plenty of yummy colored gemstones in modest sizes. I also love the chic native American Indian-inspired Texas ties. See all the designs at COUTURE in Salon #434.

Source: @talkative_marotta

Fern Freeman

I love me some Fern Freeman jewelry! Everything is sexy and 70s glam inspired with fringe, black-and-white effects with pops of color, and yellow gold—everything is attention grabbing and made to pile on. Shrinking violets need not apply! Don’s miss a trip to see her work at JCK LUXURY booth #BASSANO2602-11.

Source: @fernfreemanjewelry

Lene Vibes

Lene is from Denmark, and if you’re familiar with the Scandinavian vibe, it’s understated, fairy-tale like, with sweet motifs like snails, flowers, and creatures. The jewels have a soft look thanks to matte-gold finishes, and this lady loves her pearls! Examining each piece is a like a treasure hunt. See the work at JCK LUXURY booth #BASSANO2602-15.

Source: @lenevibe.dk

TACIT

Want a fun line that’s unlike anything else? These balloon-inspired designs are a nod to the 1980s, when experimentation with music, clothes, and culture was rich in color, quirk, and broad-spectrum creativity. This decade gave us “Thriller” and Madonna and keeps on giving with these cool jewels that new collectors will love. See it at JCK LUXURY booth #BASSANO2602-13.

Source: @tacit_ny

Jennifer Heebner is an award-winning journalist with 29 years of experience in the fine jewelry industry. She is the editor in chief of content for the American Gem Trade Association’s Prism magazine and ePrism weekly newsletter and the past editor in chief of The Jewelry Book and of #thisispearl magazine, which she created for the Pearl Association of America (PAA), where she spent seven years as its executive director. She contributes to Rapaport, INSTORE, and The GemGuide, is a PAA-certified pearl specialist, and past president of the Metropolitan chapter of the Women’s Jewelry Association. Reach her at Jennifer@jenniferheebner.com.