Inspirations

Polly Wales’ New Constellation Jewelry Collection Looks to the Stars for Style

Los Angeles. Sept. 9, 2020. Polly Wales, the innovator behind the cast-not-set technique and founder of the eponymous jewelry company, takes her most recent inspiration from the sky in the Constellation collection, which debuted a week ago.

According to the U.K.-born goldsmith, pieces in Constellation resemble “fistfuls of stars thrown into the night sky,” with sapphires landing wherever “destiny decides.” Just a handful of styles exist to date, all featuring round brilliant-cut sapphires set into 18k yellow gold.

“Constellation has all the looks people love in my jewelry,” Wales explains in a phone call. “That organic-looking, eroded quality and the jumbled-up nature of the stones. I wanted to capture some of that again because it’s reminiscent of my Confetti rings, and at a price point that is accessible.” (Retail prices for Constellation start under $2,000.)

For sure, that wonderfully distinct eroded look is evident in Wales’ Spinning Disc necklaces as well as her Confetti rings. That primitive effect, however, isn’t an easy one to craft.

“It’s hard to make those eroded looks in a stable piece of jewelry,” she continues.

Working on a smaller scale allows her to make them repeatable in a consistent manner that is “more predictable.”

And the final product? It captures the essence of the Polly Wales brand: serendipitous styles that appear as happy little mistakes.

The now-Los-Angeles-based artist will be adding more and bigger styles to the collection. Upon release to her own email list, she sold out of several styles. For example, a one-of-a-kind pair of Double Drop Disc earrings with multicolor stones sold straightaway for $4,400. Wales also sold out of small pendant necklaces, priced at $1,900 apiece, on day one. “That’s an accessible price point, so we sold four,” she says. In total, six pieces have sold thus far on Wales’ own website; expect to see more and larger Disc necklaces and Disc stud earrings.

Not surprisingly, store owners are asking for their own pieces to sell, but Wales is keeping Constellation to herself—at least for now. “In this changing time, I wanted something unique for us, just as retail accounts have wanted to have their own one-of-a-kind pieces.”

Constellation necklace in 18k yellow gold with blue sapphires, $1,960; available online at Polly Wales

Constellation necklace in 18k yellow gold with blue sapphires, $1,960; available online at Polly Wales

Disc stud earrings in 18k yellow gold with white sapphires, $2,060; available online at Polly Wales

Disc stud earrings in 18k yellow gold with white sapphires, $2,060; available online at Polly Wales

These one-of-a-kind Double Drop Disc earrings in 18k yellow gold with multicolor sapphires sold within days of their release for $4,400.

These one-of-a-kind Double Drop Disc earrings in 18k yellow gold with multicolor sapphires sold within days of their release for $4,400.


This content is copyright protected and may not be reproduced.

Inspirations

The Bahia Jewelry Collection by Hueb Is a Golden Homage to Brazil’s Tropics

New York City. Sept. 3, 2020. When Brazilian design firm Hueb added jewels to its Bahia offerings this spring, it had native tropical coastlines on the mind, as in the Bahia region of Brazil.

Voice by VicenzaOro

Located in the northeast section of the sprawling country, the Bahia state is home to the capital city of Salvador, known for historic 17th-century colonial architecture, beautiful beaches, palm trees, iguanas, a sea turtle sanctuary, and even monkeys. The charming region (which this author has visited) is inspiring to many, so it’s not surprising the brand supplemented existing styles.

For this year, Hueb’s warm and sophisticated take on Bahia explores texture to give “an additional dimension to the look and feel of the pieces,” explains Thiago Hueb, one of the company principals. Sprawling and fluid 18k yellow gold leaf motifs boast engraving that looks as though real-life flora simply froze at the Midas touch of a Hueb craftsman. From long palm frond earrings with moveable diamond sprays to vine-like rings and bracelets that cling to wearers’ fingers and wrists like climbing plants do in nature, the new Bahia pieces are editorial (read: big), lifelike, and sure to sate wearers not yet ready to travel to the South American country. (Brazil says Americans are welcome now, but the U.S. government cautions against travel there.) “These pieces evoke the sensual and vibrant landscape of Bahia,” adds Hueb.

Bahia additions were supposed to debut at Couture 2020 but are now part of the brand’s traveling trunk show and are available for order by authorized retailers or for collector shopping on the Hueb website. Interested retailers can contact Hueb at thiago.hueb@hueb.com.

Diamonds are the only gem to date included in Bahia. Retail prices start at $2,500.

Bahia ring in 18k yellow gold with 0.3 ct. t.w. diamonds, $3,300; available online at Hueb

Bahia ring in 18k yellow gold with 0.3 ct. t.w. diamonds, $3,300; available online at Hueb

Bahia earrings in 18k yellow gold with diamonds; email thiago.hueb@hueb.com for price and purchase

Bahia earrings in 18k yellow gold with 1.6 cts. t.w. diamonds, $11,000; available online at Hueb

Bahia bangle in 18k yellow gold with 0.3 ct. t.w. diamonds, $17,600; available online at Hueb

Bahia bangle in 18k yellow gold with 0.3 ct. t.w. diamonds, $17,600; available online at Hueb


This content is copyright protected and may not be reproduced.

Inspirations

Jacqueline Cullen’s New Dark Matter Jewelry Collection Is Out of This World

London. Sept. 2, 2020. When Jacqueline Cullen of the same-name design firm unveiled her Dark Matter jewelry collection earlier this year, she couldn’t have envisioned halting production at just four pieces. But, alas, Covid came calling around the globe, hampering production on the outer-space-inspired jewelry made in her signature 18 yellow gold with Whitby jet and black diamonds. As the world slowly reopens, Cullen’s efforts to expand the line are resuming; she will have a new Dark Matter necklace in time for the virtual edition of the London-based Goldsmith’s Fair, Sept. 22–27 and Sept. 29–Oct. 4, as well as a shoppable website.

Voice by VicenzaOro

Dark Matter explores intergalactic space travel through constellation- and black-hole-like effects in her beloved Whitby jet.Hand-carved fissures in the gem give way to black-diamond-encrusted clefts that scatter across surfaces as if propelled by meteoric speed. For sure, Cullen’s collections always put themes of powerful forces—erupting volcanoes, colliding asteroids, and lightning ripping apart a placid sky—on an imaginative pedestal, so she sees Dark Matter as a natural progression in her body of work. Previous collections include Atomic, Stardust, and Galactica, all iterations of a space theme family of ideas that keep on giving. Dark Matter differs from the others in the flattened, rounded disc shapes of the jet, which are put together from two bonded halves bearing a center of negative space. That’s where Cullen sets marquise shapes of black diamonds to give a jagged appearance, as if the center had just exploded. “It looks like you are traveling through dark matter,” she says.

“I am one of the very few people who still work with this material and the only one doing very nontraditional work,” she explains over email about Whitby jet, a 180-million-year-old fossil native to the northeast coast of the U.K. “The material is rare but has a long heritage from Roman times through to Victorian mourning jewelry. It is also highly unusual to see diamonds set directly into a stone rather than encased in a metal surround. I am reinterpreting an organic heritage material for a 21st century audience.”

Retailers can place orders now for delivery this winter, while collectors can soon shop styles now on Cullen’s website (for now, use email for inquiries). Retail prices start at $1,530.

Pendant necklace in 18k yellow gold with round brilliant black diamonds, $1,265; email info@jacquelinecullen.com for purchase

Pendant necklace in 18k yellow gold with Whitby jet and round brilliant black diamonds, $1,265; email info@jacquelinecullen.com for purchase

Explosion earrings in 18k yellow gold with Whitby jet and 3.5 cts. t.w. marquise and round brilliant diamonds, $3,320; email info@jacquelinecullen.com for purchase

Explosion earrings in 18k yellow gold with Whitby jet and 3.5 cts. t.w. marquise and round brilliant diamonds, $3,320; email info@jacquelinecullen.com for purchase

Vortex earrings in frosted 18k yellow gold with Whitby jet and 4.0 cts. t.w. marquise and round brilliant diamonds, $3,700; email info@jacquelinecullen.com for purchase

Vortex earrings in frosted 18k yellow gold with Whitby jet and 4.0 cts. t.w. marquise and round brilliant diamonds, $3,700; email info@jacquelinecullen.com for purchase


This content is copyright protected and may not be reproduced.

Inspirations

The Contents of Moritz Glik’s Newest Kaleidoscope Shaker Jewels Are—Wait for It—Pearls!

New York City. Sept. 1, 2020. Moritz Glik, master of shake-style jewels (gems sandwiched between colorless sapphire) has unveiled a new collection that is not his typical ode to faceted gemstones. Instead, two capsule series dubbed Mar and Concha (sea and shell, respectively in Portuguese, Glik’s native language) within the Apura Collection put the nacreous pearl on a pedestal.

Mar comprises two saltwater pearl pieces featuring akoya, South Sea, and Tahitian keshi in one-of-a-kind necklaces, while Concha’s freshwater pearls are set in a pair of earrings, a pendant, and a ring. One other pair of pearl earrings is part of Glik’s Voa series. All the jewels are in 18k yellow or rose gold.

Voice by VicenzaOro

“I see that many designers are using pearls these days, and I thought that the market is now ready to see pearls in a way that reads Moritz Glik,” says the designer. “The keshi pearls, especially, have very organic shapes. Using the round shape to encase them creates a contrast between geometric and organic that is very fluid, and I love it. It’s quite similar to what I do with the rose cut stones that are so present in my shaker designs. When you ‘shake’ the pearl shakers, you can hear a very distinct sound, which connects me with the sound of the ocean.”

Mid-September is the official launch date for the new styles, but a look book has already been shared with Glik’s retailers. Retail prices start at $1,900. Shop them directly from Glik’s website on Sept. 15. Retailers interested in a wholesale account can email moritz@moritzglik.com.

Concha ring in 18k rose gold with natural-color pink freshwater pearls encased in a white sapphire kaleidoscope shaker, $1,900; email moritz@moritzglik.com for purchase

Concha ring in 18k rose gold with natural-color pink freshwater pearls encased in a white sapphire kaleidoscope shaker, $1,900; email moritz@moritzglik.com for purchase

Concha earrings with natural-color pink freshwater pearls encased in a white sapphire kaleidoscope shaker and diamond accents, $2,700; email moritz@moritzglik.com for purchase

Concha earrings with natural-color pink freshwater pearls encased in a white sapphire kaleidoscope shaker and diamond accents, $2,700; email moritz@moritzglik.com for purchase

Mar 24 necklace in 18k yellow gold with saltwater akoya and South Sea keshi pearls encased in a white sapphire kaleidoscope shaker, $4,200; available online from Moritz Glik

Mar 24 necklace in 18k yellow gold with saltwater akoya and South Sea keshi pearls encased in a white sapphire kaleidoscope shaker, $4,200; available online from Moritz Glik


This content is copyright protected and may not be reproduced.