Inspirations

Aurélie Dellasanta’s Spike Jewelry Collection Is an Extension of Her Love of Punk

London. Feb. 22, 2021. When designer Aurélie Dellasanta debuted her Urban Animal collection last year, the creatures in it already had spike elements along with their mohawks and chains. Now, a year later, the spikes themselves have their own themed array à la the Spike jewelry collection.

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“[The spike] is an archetypal symbol, one of the first shapes that humans used when they adorned themselves with animal teeth or nails to inspire power and ferocity, but also protection and wisdom,” she explains.

Other influences? Victorian-era jewelry (consider her Victorian-inspired crescent moon design) and the artist’s love of Indian culture, which plays a subtle role by way of shape, metal textures, and vibrant colorways—think juicy-looking fancy sapphires in pink and orange. Another example is her Long Pink Moon earrings which marry the slender Victorianesque crescent moon shape with spikes and Indian-influenced gold beading.

“I have always been fond of the Victorian era for its delicate jewelry patterns and refined poetic symbols,” she continues.

Overall, Spike gives iconic silhouettes like a pear-shape pendant or diamond studs an edgier style, and the collection on the whole becomes an “anthem to diversity and freedom,” she adds.

Some 25 designs are available in three color options in sterling silver, 18k gold vermeil, or 18k gold. Customization is available. Gemstones include citrine; topaz; peridot; fancy sapphires in white, pink, orange, and green; green and pink tourmalines; colorless diamonds; and the occasional tsavorite. Retail prices in silver start at £240.

Spike can be found in EC One gallery in London and online at the At Work gallery and on Dellasanta’s own website.

Large pear citrine necklace in 18k gold vermeil with 1.1 cts. t.w. citrines and 0.025 ct. t.w. pink sapphires, £220

Large pear citrine necklace in 18k gold vermeil with 1.1 cts. t.w. citrines and 0.025 ct. t.w. pink sapphires, £220; available online at Aurélie Dellasanta

Round fancy sapphires ring in 18k yellow gold vermeil with 0.15 ct. t.w. orange sapphire, 0.06 ct. t.w. green sapphire, and 0.04 ct. t.w. pink sapphire, £375; available online at Aurélie Dellasanta

Round fancy sapphires ring in 18k yellow gold vermeil with 0.15 ct. t.w. orange sapphire, 0.06 ct. t.w. green sapphire, and 0.04 ct. t.w. pink sapphire, £375; available online at Aurélie Dellasanta

Long Spike Moon earrings in 18k yellow gold with 1.35 cts. t.w. white sapphires, £2,100; available online at Aurélie Dellasanta

Long White Moon earrings in 18k yellow gold with 1.35 cts. t.w. white sapphires, £2,100; available online at Aurélie Dellasanta

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Inspirations

Jewelry Designer Anna Zuckerman on Why Tiaras Matter

Boca Raton, Fla. Feb. 16, 2021. Founder and designer of Anna Zuckerman Luxury debuted her eponymous jewelry brand of rhodium-plated sterling silver set with a high grade of cubic zirconia (CZ) in 2019, and the seemingly frivolous tiara took a prominent spot in the mix early on.

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The onetime proprietor of a fine-jewelry store in Wisconsin and emigrant from the former Soviet Union says tiaras stand for classical antiquity, history, love, and sass. “Everything is about empowering the queen within you,” she says of her creations featuring Eastern European flair. Her CZ, she maintains, uses nanotechnology to make Diamond Coated Crystalline, a coating of material comprising a diamond-like element to offer red-carpet-inspired style for an everyday lifestyle.

While her jewelry items (think tennis bracelet) may seem more practical for daily wear, tiaras were actually among the first styles she ever designed.

“When wedding dress shopping, I recognized a market need for affordable tiaras that reflected the peak of luxury,” she explains. “The first tiara design showcased a stunning ruby red simulant set within a Victorian-Deco composition. This is the first one that sold.”

It went home with a longtime customer from Milwaukee in the spring of 2020. “This was at the beginning of the pandemic,” says Zuckerman. “Businesses were beginning to shut down.”

The designer donated the proceeds to Covid-19 relief efforts.

To date, five tiara styles are available for queens worldwide—though they are welcome to shop in person at Zuckerman’s flagship store in Florida. Fifty tiaras have sold thus far. More designs are in the works. A long-term goal? Crowning Miss Universe, but she’s happy to start with crowning you. “Never forget the greatness that lives within you,” she says to fans.

Royal 02 Tiara in rhodium-plated sterling silver with CZ, $1,995, Anna Zuckerman; available online at Anna Zuckerman Luxury

Royal 02 Tiara in rhodium-plated sterling silver with CZ, $1,995, Anna Zuckerman; available online at Anna Zuckerman Luxury


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Inspirations

LoriAnn Jewelry’s New Reflections Collection Uses Sliced Diamonds to Mirror Light & Joy

Westport, Conn. Feb. 9, 2021. To start the new year right, jewelry designer Lori Friedman of LoriAnn Jewelry is offering a joyful collection of jewels featuring slice diamonds. Dubbed Reflections, the lean diamond cuts aim to serve as bright little mirrors to echo life’s joyful moments. Reflections follows other recent offerings—Harmony, Unity, and Confetti—which also speak to her positive outlook on life, coronavirus aside.

“There is no better time than now to reflect on where we have been so that we may move forward,” she explains to the media. “Reflections is a personal reminder that we have the power to shine in a world that is sometimes filled with uncertainty. With a newfound sense of renewal, we can feel empowered to manage and respond to life’s challenges. I love that our new collection is reflective of light, and I think the timing is relevant.”

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Not surprisingly, the “pretty factor” of slices plays a role in their prominence. “I love the organic beauty of their irregular shapes and interesting patterns, making each slice unique and truly one of a kind.”

The grayish white diamonds are set in 14k yellow gold for an even more chipper look. Plus, bezel-set faceted colorless diamonds are set either into the slices or just off to the side, giving each flat rock a little more oomph. Her signature linear effects, sometimes present in a slender bar set over the stones, makes an appearance in various styles.

Retail prices for Reflections start at $475. Some 20 SKUs exist to date but expect more—and a bouquet of colors—come spring.

“I will be expanding Reflections with pops of color and multiple clusters, adding more wonderment to this beautiful slice of life!” says Friedman.

Cluster ring in 14k yellow gold with 0.44 cts. t.w. diamonds, $935; Loriann Jewelry, available online at Loriann Jewelry

Cluster ring in 14k yellow gold with 0.44 cts. t.w. diamonds, $935; Loriann Jewelry, available online at Loriann Jewelry

Slice pendant necklace in 14k yellow gold with 0.79 cts. t.w. diamonds, $1,490; Loriann Jewelry, available online at Loriann Jewelry

Slice pendant necklace in 14k yellow gold with 0.79 cts. t.w. diamonds, $1,490; Loriann Jewelry, available online at Loriann Jewelry

Statement earrings in 14k yellow gold with 1.84 cts. t.w. diamonds, $3,590; Loriann Jewelry, available online at Loriann Jewelry

Statement earrings in 14k yellow gold with 1.84 cts. t.w. diamonds, $3,590; Loriann Jewelry, available online at Loriann Jewelry


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Inspirations

Melanie Georgacopoulos’ New ‘Carats’ Natural Hippopus Pearl Jewelry Collection Celebrates Design, Rarity, and Ingenuity

New York City. Feb. 2, 2021. To celebrate her 10th year in business, UK jewelry designer Melanie Georgacopoulos offers a natural pearl jewelry collection with one-of-a-kind designs. Called Carats, offerings include Hippopus non-nacreous natural pearls from the Hippopus tropical marine bivalve mollusk, or giant saltwater clam, along with diamonds and mother-of-pearl. The collection name refers to the fact that both diamonds and natural pearls, unlike cultured pearls, are measured in carat weight.

Many know of Georgacopoulos’ love affair with pearls and her ongoing desire to push the boundaries of designs with them, so to mark her special anniversary, she ensured that a specific type of natural pearl—the rarest of all pearls—took center stage. The name Hippopus comes from ancient Greek and means horse foot. Hippopus pearls are whitish in color and have a flame pattern like other non-nacreous natural pearls (think conch and melo melo), but cost less, and aren’t as widely seen in fine jewelry. Another positive in Georgacopoulos’ view?

“They look more special than natural freshwaters,” she explains of the gems she sourced from Indonesia.

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Hard to miss in the collection is Georgacopoulos’ new embedded jewelry technique, where diamonds or pearls appear to be pushed into mother-of-pearl to create a cushion-like effect.

“It took a lot of time to develop it with the carver,” she reveals. “We did several plasticine models, and the carver did a few samples with mother-of-pearl, before agreeing on the best way to make it look more ‘cushiony.’ I wanted the nacre to really look like it had been spontaneously pressed into, so as to highlight the softness of the mother-of-pearl, especially in contrast to the hard diamonds. The feeling of not being able to entirely control everything, such as the position of the most precious elements, feels appropriate at this time. COVID-19 has hindered production but also highlighted the importance of consuming less but better goods.”

Eliko Pearls has specialty pearls of all types, including Maki-e mosaic pearls, faceted pearls, and blue akoyas.

Also unique in the collection is the diversity of looks within it. Typically, collections feature matching pieces, but not Carats, which is an ongoing body of work featuring one-of-a-kind jewels that complement one another. Earrings, bangles, and rings bear different styles of diamonds with multiple shapes, cuts, colors, settings, and sizes. The resulting pieces don’t follow one single narrative or aesthetic. The artist also plans to show designs as they are completed, not all at one time, a move that eliminates a rigid race to finish items.

“I’m giving myself the freedom to design pieces that form a group whilst being different to each other rather than rolling out the same technique over 20 to 30 pieces as I’ve done in the past,” Georgacopoulos adds. “As more additions come in, you will see the narrative of pearls, mother-of-pearl, and diamonds evolving in terms of design and techniques used.” Eleven pieces are currently available, with more in production. All are made in recycled 18k white, yellow, and rose gold to complement the colors of the diamonds. Retail prices range from $5,400 to $30,000. To date, three pieces are on hold and several private commissions have been initiated. Interested parties can email info@melaniegeorgacopoulos.com for purchase.

V signet ring in recycled 18k white gold with lavender and white mother-of-pearl and 0.78 ct. t.w. colorless diamonds, £4,800; available online at Melanie Georgacopoulos

V signet ring in recycled 18k white gold with lavender and white mother-of-pearl and 0.78 ct. t.w. colorless diamonds, £4,800; available online at Melanie Georgacopoulos

Asymmetric drop earrings in 18k white and rose gold with 5.5 cts. t.w. white hippopus pearls and 0.91 cts. t.w. white and purple radiant-cut diamonds, £4,800; available online at Melanie Georgacopoulos

Asymmetric drop earrings in 18k white and rose gold with 5.5 cts. t.w. white hippopus pearls and 0.91 cts. t.w. white and purple radiant-cut diamonds, £4,800; available online at Melanie Georgacopoulos

Embedded bracelet in recycled 18k yellow gold with white mother-of-pearl and 11 cts. t.w. white hippopus pearls, £16,200; available online at Melanie Georgacopoulos

Embedded bracelet in recycled 18k yellow gold with white mother-of-pearl and 11 cts. t.w. white hippopus pearls, £16,200; available online at Melanie Georgacopoulos


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