Inspirations

The New Respiro Jewelry Collection from Emanuela Duca Is the Deep Breath We All Need Now

Rome. Aug. 31, 2020. Between her hometown of Rome, Italy, and her adopted one in the Hudson Valley of New York (both places hit hard by the pandemic), designer Emanuela Duca of an eponymous jewelry firm has been taking a lot of relaxing deep breaths—so many in fact, that they gave way to an aptly titled new jewelry collection. Dubbed Respiro, which is Italian for the word breath, Duca’s new designs are inspired by the power of our own puffs.

“Breathing keeps us present and centered when everything else seems to spin around so fast,” she explains in an email interview from Rome, where she has spent the last few months.

Voice by VicenzaOro

Respiro is debuting now. The collection contains 26 pieces made in her signature organic surface style inspired by volcanic ash (a nod to the volcanic activity in her home country). Materials include sterling silver, blackened sterling silver, 18k yellow gold, bronze, and diamonds. Lanky metal segments and the occasional tiny jump ring connecting them serve as controlled visual exhalations, while larger metal surfaces call to mind deeper breathes—the really relaxing kind.

“When you experience a stressful situation, your body thinks that it’s under attack and relies on its primal instincts to survive,” says Duca. “Your heart pounds, your palms sweat, your breath races, and adrenaline pumps through your system.”

Deep breathing techniques combat stress by counteracting your body’s fight-or-flight response to stress. “You take in more oxygen, your heart rate slows, and your mind starts to slow down,” adds Duca.

It’s this period of calm that the designer credits for the rise of Respiro. “In the past months the world has flipped! The current situation pushed me to find myself on a deeper level. When my mind slowed down, new possibilities arose.”

Retail prices for Respiro start at $500.

Earrings in 18k yellow gold and blackened sterling silver, $4,000, Emanuela Duca; email educa@emanueladuca.com for purchase

Earrings in 18k yellow gold and blackened sterling silver, $4,000; email educa@emanueladuca.com for purchase

Necklace in 18k yellow gold and blackened sterling silver, $5,000, Emanuela Duca; email educa@emanueladuca.com for purchase

Necklace in 18k yellow gold and blackened sterling silver, $5,000; email educa@emanueladuca.com for purchase

Ring in 18k yellow gold and blackened sterling silver with a 0.25 ct. brown diamond, $6,000, Emanuela Duca; email educa@emanueladuca.com for purchase

Ring in 18k yellow gold and blackened sterling silver with a 0.25 ct. brown diamond, $6,000; email educa@emanueladuca.com for purchase


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Inspirations

Delphine Leymarie’s Colored Stone Inlay Chains Are a Brilliant Way to Wear the Layering Trend

New York City. Aug. 28, 2020. It was the summer of 2017 when the idea for jewelry designer Delphine Leymarie’s gemstone inlay chains was born from the design of a road-sign-like pendant.

The New York City transplant from southern France had ramped up her use of color—prior to that, her contemporary gold line comprised largely diamonds and metalwork—and one of the first pieces she made was a vintage French-inspired road sign with enamel reading La Plage.

“It was a rectangular pendant with a pointed arrow tip that lent itself to charm form,” she explains in a phone interview.

La Plage charm in 18k yellow gold with teal enamel served as the inspiration for the inlay chains, $695; available online from Delphine Leymarie

La Plage charm in 18k yellow gold with teal enamel served as the inspiration for the inlay chains, $695; available online from Delphine Leymarie

Not long after its debut, she yearned to make a matching chain in the same colors of enamel. More enamel was the obvious first choice, but it proved too tricky to use in a long chain. That’s when she turned to an Italian chain maker for assistance. Between the two of them, the gemstone inlay chains featuring mother-of-pearl, turquoise, malachite, lapis, and onyx came to fruition.

Voice by VicenzaOro

“They are the only part of my line not made in New York, but they are the best quality,” she says.

For Leymarie, the stone colors call to mind her love of the beach. Yellow gold represents the sun, turquoise the Mediterranean Sea, lapis is ocean blue, malachite is palm trees, white mother-of-pearl is sand, and black onyx is the volcanic sand found in southern France. Shapes include rectangles and confetti or round, while a thinner rectangular version in a different length is also available. The stones show through on both sides, meaning less gold is used and the price is more accessible.

“The thinner rectangular version is asymmetrical, and I mix longer and shorter links together for a very modern feel,” she says. “The confetti shape echoes the gold beads used in my Boheme collection.”

Individually, the shapes and colors are clever and so cute, but now Leymarie is mixing them up (think mother-of-pearl and turquoise).

“That’s a perfect day at the beach,” she muses. “I like to mix the soft and the hard aesthetic.”

Retail prices for chains start at $1,400. Bracelets are $515. Find all offerings on Leymarie’s website.

Boheme La Mini Belle inlay bracelet in 14k yellow gold with malachite (each rectangle is 10 mm. long and 3 mm. wide), $515; available online at Delphine Leymarie

Boheme La Mini Belle inlay bracelet in 14k yellow gold with malachite (each rectangle is 10 mm. long and 3 mm. wide), $515; available online at Delphine Leymarie

La Beauté inlay chain in 18k yellow gold with alternating turquoise and mother-of-pearl inlay in varying lengths of rectangular links (each link is 3 mm. wide and a mix of 9 mm., 20 mm., and 31 mm.), $1,369; available online at Delphine Leymarie

La Beauté inlay chain in 18k yellow gold with alternating turquoise and mother-of-pearl inlay in varying lengths of rectangular links (each link is 3 mm. wide and a mix of 9 mm., 20 mm., and 31 mm.), $1,369; available online at Delphine Leymarie

Boheme Confetti necklace (each circle link is 4.5 mm.) in 14k yellow gold with turquoise, $1,625; available online at Delphine Leymarie

Boheme Confetti necklace (each circle link is 4.5 mm.) in 14k yellow gold with turquoise, $1,625; available online at Delphine Leymarie


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Inspirations

Yoko London’s New Sleek Pearl Jewelry Collection Is for Modernists

London. Aug. 27, 2020. British pearl jewelry brand Yoko London is known for super high-end pieces befitting royalty, but it wants to develop closer ties to admirers without titles. That’s why it recently unveiled Sleek, a 27-piece collection of akoya and diamond earrings (for now) in 18k gold that’s just as swanky as original designs but with more accessible prices.

As the name suggests, Sleek has an uber cool, confident, and unfussy European vibe.  Think linear and streamlined looks where white akoya pearls play the starring role. Yoko London’s goal? To redefine the way women think about and wear pearl jewelry.

“The Sleek collection has been designed for the modern woman, with the philosophy that the pieces can be worn anytime, anywhere,” explains Michael Hakimian, owner of the 47-year-old brand in an email interview. “Sleek offers high-quality, style-conscious designs by using smaller, extremely high-quality akoya pearls to achieve a very modern look at an attractive price.”

Retail prices start at £900. The collection can be shopped on the Yoko London website—which is also shiny and new as of August—as well as select retail partners. (Interested retailers can reach out to Tina Goedecke at Tina@yokolondon.com or +44 207 025 0720.) Yoko London website shoppers can take advantage of a chat function for questions answered in real time and enjoy a virtual experience that is as luxury-minded as the brand itself.

“Exceptional quality is synonymous with Yoko London,” adds Hakimian.

Earrings in 18k white gold with 4–4.5mm akoya pearls and 0.244 ct. t.w. diamonds, $900; available online at Yoko London

Earrings in 18k white gold with 4–4.5mm akoya pearls and 0.244 ct. t.w. diamonds, £900; available online at Yoko London

Earrings in 18k white gold with 6–6.5mm akoya pearls and 0.254 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,800; available online at Yoko London

Earrings in 18k white gold with 6–6.5mm akoya pearls and 0.254 ct. t.w. diamonds, £1,800; available online at Yoko London

Earrings in 18k white gold with 4–4.5mm akoya pearls and 0.704 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,200; available online at Yoko London

Earrings in 18k white gold with 4–4.5mm akoya pearls and 0.704 ct. t.w. diamonds, £2,200; available online at Yoko London


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Inspirations

Robinson Pelham’s New Arcadia Collection Is Summer Camp Jewelry for Adults

London. Aug. 25, 2020. When U.K. brand Robinson Pelham unveiled Arcadia last month, a joyful gasp could be heard from collectors worldwide; wearable rainbows were available with materials that were just as fun as your kid’s beaded camp creations but infinitely more elevated.

Arcadia is a small collection that inspires big smiles. Four necklaces in 15-, 17-, 20-, and 30-inch styles and a lone bracelet are available in 9k yellow gold with custom, handmade lampworked glass beads. These are cut into two different sizes—tubes (think macaroni art, the ultimate kid camp souvenir) and rounded beads.

“The beads are made using the traditional method of lampworking, and the glass used to make the beads predominantly comes from Murano in Italy,” explains Vanessa Chilton, creative director, in an email interview.

The inspiration for the looks stems from Chilton’s educational stay at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts, in London; there she specialized in enamel work, and her passion for glass was born. Though it took a while for the brand to thoughtfully include glass into collections, the time is here.

“Glass in jewelry dates back 4,000 years,” she adds. “The earliest known glass objects were beads. It’s recyclable, it can capture intense color.”

The colors in Arcadia were carefully chosen to create a specific rainbowlike spectrum, and besides color, another reason for glass use is traceability.

“We wanted to give our customers and ourselves peace of mind,” says Chilton. “Recyclable glass and Fairtrade gold are both made in the U.K., so there is no waste and the collection is totally about color. Every bead that doesn’t pass quality control is donated to Beads of Courage UK, an organization that donates to children who are undergoing medical treatment.”

Yet another reason for Arcadia’s debut? As an additional vehicle to wear EarWish collection removable charms. Plus, there’s the #neckmess trend.

“Arcadia is the perfect solution for the craze,” observes Chilton.

Arcadia is available on the Robinson Pelham website and at Pendleton Jewelers in Kansas City, Mo. Retail prices start at $640 for the bracelet, and necklaces range from $1,300–$2,100. Stores interested in wholesale can reach out to nicole@cnwgroupnyc.com.

7-inch Arcadia bead Rainbow bracelet with one gold hinged link on a 9k yellow gold spiga chain, $640; available online at Robinson Pelham

7-inch Arcadia bead Rainbow bracelet with one gold hinged link on a 9k yellow gold spiga chain, $640; available online at Pendleton Jewelers

17-inch Arcadia bead Rainbow necklace with three gold hinged links on a 9k yellow gold spiga chain, $1400; available online at Pendleton Jewelers

17-inch Arcadia bead Rainbow necklace with three gold hinged links on a 9k yellow gold spiga chain, $1400; available online at Pendleton Jewelers

EarWish charms can be added to Arcadia necklaces; see all EarWish charms on the Robinson Pelham website.

EarWish charms can be added to Arcadia necklaces; see all EarWish charms on the Robinson Pelham website


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