Inspirations

Nina Bukvic’s Ancient Coin Amulet Jewelry Is Born from History, Personal Reflection

London. Oct. 1, 2020. Designer Nina Bukvic’s first-ever ancient coin jewelry collection was an exclusive one made for Barneys about 20 years ago, but memories of it have inspired a new iteration. Behold her latest Ancient Coin Amulet jewelry collection, which debuted in mid-September.

“During the lockdown I rummaged through some boxes, and seeing those coins brought back memories as well as new ideas,” she tells JH. “The pieces are modeled by my personal collection—I collect antique and vintage jewelry, objects, and coins. Some are Roman, others more recent Victorian, and some are the same ones I used as inspiration for the Barneys collection.”

Plus, as Covid-era reality unfolded, so did uncertainty, and Bukvic saw individuals slowing down to better appreciate and re-evaluate their lives, moves she also made. The new coins became part of this experience.

“This is an opportunity to look back in our past and try to connect it with our present and create a better future,” she continues. “This collection is just that, bringing the past back and fusing it with the present and thereby creating an aesthetically balanced fusion of both.”

So she reimagined her initial coin collection—“I  still had a few of those coins,” she says—and that gave way to the rest. All are made predominately in 18k yellow gold with some 22k and 9k gold mixed in, as well as some silver. Pink and blue sapphires and fancy-color diamonds are used as stone accents. Retail prices range from £300 to £9,000.

What’s uncommon about these coins is that they are entirely made by hand—no casting! And while each jewel is unique, similar ones can be reordered with the understanding that no two will ever be exactly the same.

“I love experimenting, coming up with new techniques,” Bukvic explains about a thoughtful process she employs to make the coins. She melts gold (lately, lots of scraps) over a jeweler’s charcoal or soldering mat, scraping the material and using a pick to shape it while it’s molten. Over time and with practice, she’s gotten into a groove of making coins this way. But the process, not Bukvic, dictates the size of the coin.

A newly completed, fabricated coin from Nina Bukvic

A newly completed, fabricated coin from Nina Bukvic

“I don’t decide how big the coin is—it’s decided by chance,” she says in a phone interview. “This is not precise or a predictable method, but I enjoy it. Once I get the desired shape or effect, I can further file and sand it. Then I decide what to do with it depending on how thin it is, such as making a ring or a necklace.”

Ancient Coin Amulet is already in a few stores in the United Kingdom and arrives stateside in October.

Ancient Coin stud earrings in 18k yellow gold, £1,050; available online at Nina Bukvic

Ancient Coin stud earrings in 18k yellow gold, £1,050; available online at Nina Bukvic

Ancient Coin ring in 18k yellow gold, £2,900; available online at Nina Bukvic

Ancient Coin ring in 18k yellow gold, £2,900; available online at Nina Bukvic

Ancient Coin necklace in 18k yellow gold, £5,960; available online at Nina Bukvic


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Inspirations

ParkFord Jewelry’s New Revival Collection Is a Visual Love Letter to Chicago

Chicago. Sept. 30, 2020. Jeanette Park loves Chicago so much that the city is the design muse for her new Revival jewelry line. The Midwest native, originally from Waukesha, Wis., and the force behind ParkFord Jewelry (the business moniker is a combination of her maiden name and her husband’s family name) unveiled Revival yesterday, “a collection inspired by the mix of old and new that I see every day here in Chicago,” she explains. “Chicago is such a vibrant modern city but still has nostalgia from the turn of the century that I wanted to capture and translate into a fine-jewelry collection.”

One of the city’s most unique structures is the Mantonya Flats building designed by Curd H. Gottig and built in 1887 by Lucius B. Mantonya. This dwelling was built six years after Chicago’s great fire, which burned for two days, destroyed more than three square miles of the city, and left about 100,000 people homeless. Among its distinctive features: Moorish-inspired windows that are rounded and have keyhole-like effects. “I’ve been dying to design around those,” says Park. “These round brick window frames are also featured in other flats from that era, and this inspired the motif you see in my designs.”

To date, Revival features 26 SKUs, all made in 14k gold with a variety of gemstones, including faves like tanzanite and turquoise. “I love color and wanted to keep things bright,” she explains. Retail prices for Revival start at $1,280. All the jewelry is made in Chicago.

Park’s beloved design signature of claw prongs, evident in many of her other works, have an understated presence in some Revival styles, as do cabochon stone cuts.

“My designs are modern and have clean lines and bright pops of color—I don’t have a craft look even though there is a vintage influence,” she adds.

Collectors can shop Revival on the ParkFord website now while store buyers can email Jackie Lebental at Jackie@barri.onmicrosoft.com for wholesale purchases.

Double Revival ring in 14k yellow gold with jadeite jade and 0.1 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,530; available online at Park Ford Jewelry

Double Revival ring in 14k yellow gold with jadeite jade and 0.1 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,530; available online at ParkFord Jewelry

Midi Revival stud earrings in 14k yellow gold with 0.38 ct. t.w. hot pink sapphires, $3,470; available online at Park Ford Jewelry

Midi Revival stud earrings in 14k yellow gold with 0.38 ct. t.w. hot pink sapphires, $3,470; available online at ParkFord Jewelry

Rainbow Revival necklace in 14k yellow gold with rainbow moonstone and 1.2 cts. t.w. baguette-cut sapphires, $3,950; available online at Park Ford Jewelry

Rainbow Revival necklace in 14k yellow gold with rainbow moonstone and 1.2 cts. t.w. baguette-cut sapphires, $3,950; available online at ParkFord Jewelry


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Inspirations

Crystal Sky by Shaill Jhaveri Celebrates Rock Crystal and Healing Vibes

New York City. Sept. 30, 2020. Shaill Jhaveri has always loved colorless rock crystal—so much so that when a relative gifted him a pair of crystal cufflinks about three years ago, he decided to make the stone the star of its own collection. The longtime jewelry designer debuted Crystal Sky quietly to the trade mid-summer, though some pieces have been in the line for a little longer. He started experimenting with crystal cuts upon receipt of that gift.

Jhaveri, known for his signature lattice-like effects in karat gold and for his swallow motif (a symbol of love, loyalty, and peace), uses custom cuts of the colorless gem in bold settings and shapes in Crystal Sky. Think butterfly wings, thick ovals, discs, and square and long emerald-cut silhouettes, most with beveled or faceted edges. Every cut is created from rough to his specifications. As for the aesthetic qualities of the gem, he loves it for its clear look and healing properties.

“It has an ethereal quality, boosts energy and mood, and instills a sense of peace like no other stone,” he explains. Then there’s that transparency. “It makes you feel like you could touch the sky.”

Crystal Sky has 35 SKUs made in 14k gold with gem accents like tsavorites, turquoise, amethyst, and diamonds, among others. The collection is a natural progression of his body of work where he overlays airy karat-gold trellis effects and insets the crystal with more colorful gems. Keys, butterflies, dragonflies, discs, celestial themes, and crowns are among the motifs used, while long doublet and triplet necklaces are pretty and popular among collectors to date. Jewels retail from $1,100 to $4,000.

And for those who believe in rock crystal’s metaphysical properties, the pieces could offer some much-needed mental relief.

“Who doesn’t need some crystal healing at this time?” Jhaveri muses. It feels like the appropriate time. “We are in a moment for crystals, healing, and light.”

Retailers and collectors should email ShaillJewelry@gmail.com to place orders or purchase specific pieces. Line sheets are also available upon request.

Editor’s note: Jennifer Heebner does part-time consulting work for Shaill Jhaveri but covers this new collection as she would any other.

Medium-size ring in 14k yellow gold with colorless rock crystal, a turquoise cabochon, and 0.2 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,650; email ShaillJewelry@gmail.com for purchase

Medium-size ring in 14k yellow gold with colorless rock crystal, a turquoise cabochon, and 0.2 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,650; email ShaillJewelry@gmail.com for purchase

Butterfly pendant necklace in 14k yellow gold with colorless rock crystal, 4.11 cts. t.w. amethyst, 2.05 cts. t.w. turquoise, and 0.21 ct. t.w. diamonds, $3,455; email ShaillJewelry@gmail.com for purchase

Butterfly pendant necklace in 14k yellow gold with colorless rock crystal, 4.11 cts. t.w. amethyst, 2.05 cts. t.w. turquoise, and 0.21 ct. t.w. diamonds, $3,455; email ShaillJewelry@gmail.com for purchase

Drop earrings in 14k yellow gold with colorless rock crystal with lattice effects, 1.23 cts. t.w. tsavorite, and 0.31 ct. t.w. diamonds, $3,565; email ShaillJewelry@gmail.com for purchase

Drop earrings in 14k yellow gold with colorless rock crystal with lattice effects, 1.23 cts. t.w. tsavorite, and 0.31 ct. t.w. diamonds, $3,565; email ShaillJewelry@gmail.com for purchase


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Inspirations

Julez Bryant’s Better Days Jewelry Collection Has the Sunshine and Rainbows You Need Now

Solana Beach, Calif. Sept. 29, 2020. Mother Nature provided the peace that jewelry designer Julez Bryant needed during quarantine (think California sunsets and flowers), and this gave way to a new Better Days jewelry collection.

“During COVID, I’ve seen that it’s a blessing to be able to slow down and reconnect,” she explains in an email interview. “To get through the loneliness and solitude of quarantine, Mother Nature stepped in and provided me with beautiful sunsets and colorful flowers blooming. These scenes remind me of my childhood spent playing in the California sunshine and taking road trips along the coastline. These inspirations have been realized through my work.”

Little would an adolescent Bryant, roller skating in Gloria Vanderbilt jeans with her mind on “boys, art, music, and life,” realize that those carefree days would plant the design seeds for wonderfully retro-inspired jewels rich in the optimism of her youth.

To date, Better Days comprises mostly pendant necklaces made in 14k yellow gold with colored sapphires and colorless and black diamonds as well as one ring. Special hand-selected stones, too—like unheated sapphires from Madagascar—are included, as well as all of Bryant’s signature satin and hand-hammered finishes. Motifs include sun rays, stripes, and rainbows, and every piece is made in her Southern California studio. Offerings debuted this month, and retail prices start at $2,964. Initial store orders are shipping now, and most pieces are for sale on her website.

Everyone dreams of better days ahead, but this collection will ensure you don’t forget they are coming. Store buyers can email wade@julez.com for more information.

HOTT charm necklace in 14k yellow gold with 0.4 ct. t.w. full-cut colorless diamonds and 0.1 ct. t.w. yellow sapphires and an alternating satin and shiny finish, $6,119; available online at Julez Bryant

HOTT charm necklace in 14k yellow gold with 0.4 ct. t.w. full-cut colorless diamonds and 0.1 ct. t.w. yellow sapphires and an alternating satin and shiny finish, $6,119; available online at Julez Bryant

EDEN ring in 14k yellow gold with 0.37 ct. t.w. sapphires and diamonds, $8,958; email wade@julez.com for purchase

EDEN ring in 14k yellow gold with 0.37 ct. t.w. sapphires and diamonds, $8,958; email wade@julez.com for purchase


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